Do you know how long starfish can last without food? I know its weird but my friend wants to know because she doesn't want to buy starfish food because she took two from the ocean and she thinks they will just die anyway so how long can they last without being fed?
Answers:
dont really know sorry
Are they in a saltwater aquarium or just in a bowl of water? People pay tons of money for starfish because they are a rarity and very interesting, this is such a waste, go put them back in the ocean. Tell your friend to be more responsible and feed it and put it in the right atmosphere if she wants to keep it. They will only last a few days unless they are cared for properly.
I agree with the others. Your friend is downright cruel!!!
Take it back to the ocean and let it live!!!!
Starfish are ultrasensitive to changes in salinity (saltwater) and your friend probably knows nothing about saltwater fish.
It will start falling apart and literally deteriorating!
If she doesn't know what or when to feed it, should she really have the responsibility of having it for a pet? Besides, let the poor baby go! It's supposed to live free in it's envirnment. Not some tank, with someone who doesn't know how to feed it. Bring it back, or have the ASPCA let it go. At least they care..
Sunday, August 2, 2009
How long can Goldfish live with-out food?
This is the second day I forgot to buy fish flakes for my tank of 10 gold fish. Should I make an emergency run to the shops?
Answers:
Check this link out, you'll probably find you already have several things in your fridge that your Goldfish will love ( flakes really are Goldfish junk food!)
They can live about 4 days without food.
I think they can go a week maximum
YES! Two days is about their limit.
They must be pretty hungry by now-- they have short digestive systems so they have probably pooped away everything they ate 2 days ago.
Please go today-- if not otday, then no later than tomorrow-- fish food is cheap -- why not buy 2 cans and save the second one -- then when you START to use the second one, go out and buy another one as a back-up.
i know of gold fish that have lived a month + but i dont know they could have been eating each other??lol your good for a couple of days
Goldfish are meant to be feed once. or twice a day...but in some cases you can feed them every other day meaning..Monday you feed them %26 tuesday you don't etc.. But it best that you go %26 buy your fishes food ASAP!!! they must be very hungry by now!!! (don't over feed them either because they can die)..
about a week. but if you are going on vacation you can use the block food which will feed them.
2 days for a goldfish is a walk in the park.
1 week is easily done for a goldfish that was healthy from the start, with the exception of small fry.
The fact is, goldfish at their ideal water temperature can go weeks without food and be no worse for wear, except skinny and hungry. In chilled water they can even go months without food. It's hard for many to understand how this can be and so they deny the possiblity, but it is the truth.
I can assure you with 100% certainty that you will not harm the goldfish if he skips a few days of food every now and then. And anyone who goes away for vacation and buys those feeder blocks do, whether they realize it or not, leave their fish without food for that time - those blocks are mostly filler and contain next to 0 nutrition.
BUY an auto-feeder... they are simple to hang on to the back of the tank and can feed ur fish different amounts twice a day. plus they are cheap
The easy answer is how long can you go without eating. I know it sounds harsh, but they need to be fed everyday to keep them healthy and active. If I were you I would get some food for them asap or they could begin to get sick or worse even die.
Answers:
Check this link out, you'll probably find you already have several things in your fridge that your Goldfish will love ( flakes really are Goldfish junk food!)
They can live about 4 days without food.
I think they can go a week maximum
YES! Two days is about their limit.
They must be pretty hungry by now-- they have short digestive systems so they have probably pooped away everything they ate 2 days ago.
Please go today-- if not otday, then no later than tomorrow-- fish food is cheap -- why not buy 2 cans and save the second one -- then when you START to use the second one, go out and buy another one as a back-up.
i know of gold fish that have lived a month + but i dont know they could have been eating each other??lol your good for a couple of days
Goldfish are meant to be feed once. or twice a day...but in some cases you can feed them every other day meaning..Monday you feed them %26 tuesday you don't etc.. But it best that you go %26 buy your fishes food ASAP!!! they must be very hungry by now!!! (don't over feed them either because they can die)..
about a week. but if you are going on vacation you can use the block food which will feed them.
2 days for a goldfish is a walk in the park.
1 week is easily done for a goldfish that was healthy from the start, with the exception of small fry.
The fact is, goldfish at their ideal water temperature can go weeks without food and be no worse for wear, except skinny and hungry. In chilled water they can even go months without food. It's hard for many to understand how this can be and so they deny the possiblity, but it is the truth.
I can assure you with 100% certainty that you will not harm the goldfish if he skips a few days of food every now and then. And anyone who goes away for vacation and buys those feeder blocks do, whether they realize it or not, leave their fish without food for that time - those blocks are mostly filler and contain next to 0 nutrition.
BUY an auto-feeder... they are simple to hang on to the back of the tank and can feed ur fish different amounts twice a day. plus they are cheap
The easy answer is how long can you go without eating. I know it sounds harsh, but they need to be fed everyday to keep them healthy and active. If I were you I would get some food for them asap or they could begin to get sick or worse even die.
How long can a fish be out of water?
like if a fish came out of its tank and stood there on da floor.
how long can he stay alive?
Answers:
Out of water, the gills collapse like wet tissue paper, and very little surface area is left exposed for gas exchange. Most fish, therefore, can only survive a short time out of water before oxygen deficiency catches up with them and they asphyxiate.
about 2minutes 4the most
Not too long.Maybe a minute or so.
5 minutes... i had like 7 fish i bought, and 1 fell on the floor and i noticed like a while later, so i put it in the tank and it was fine.
it depends what kind of fish your talking about...beta fish can survive out of water for atleast a half minute (i am guessing..do not try) because they have lungs and come to the top of their tanks to breathe..however, another fish such as a gold one...would not last long because it needs water to filter out the oxygen to breate
About a minute, maybe less.
how long can he stay alive?
Answers:
Out of water, the gills collapse like wet tissue paper, and very little surface area is left exposed for gas exchange. Most fish, therefore, can only survive a short time out of water before oxygen deficiency catches up with them and they asphyxiate.
about 2minutes 4the most
Not too long.Maybe a minute or so.
5 minutes... i had like 7 fish i bought, and 1 fell on the floor and i noticed like a while later, so i put it in the tank and it was fine.
it depends what kind of fish your talking about...beta fish can survive out of water for atleast a half minute (i am guessing..do not try) because they have lungs and come to the top of their tanks to breathe..however, another fish such as a gold one...would not last long because it needs water to filter out the oxygen to breate
About a minute, maybe less.
How long before I see results from treating Velvet?
I just started treating my newest betta for Velvet about 4 days ago. His breathing is better and his pectoral fins are starting to open again. Problem is he still doesn't seem to be eating and the rest of his fins are still really stiff and clamped. Anyone have any experience with treating this disease?
Answers:
I've just finished treating one of my own bettas (a new purchase, the velvet showed up 3 days after I got him). Usually, the treatment is effective in 2 weeks, but his took closer to 3 to rid him of all the spots.
If you raise the temperature (85o) and turn off any lights directly over the tank (Piscinoodinium is a photosynthetic dinoflagellate), this seems to help in the recovery.
Answers:
I've just finished treating one of my own bettas (a new purchase, the velvet showed up 3 days after I got him). Usually, the treatment is effective in 2 weeks, but his took closer to 3 to rid him of all the spots.
If you raise the temperature (85o) and turn off any lights directly over the tank (Piscinoodinium is a photosynthetic dinoflagellate), this seems to help in the recovery.
How long are betta females pregnant?
i am pretty sure now that i have a female. Ty to everyone who answered me. I bought my betta bout 2 mo. ago from a pet store and the guy didn't know anything about bettas, so if my betta is dropping little white and clear balls is she laying eggs or could something else be wrong? Or if she is laying eggs how many do they usually have?
Answers:
Female Betta's don't technically get pregnant. They lay eggs and those eggs must be fertilized by a male when they are laid before they will hatch. Sometimes a female will drop eggs even without a male available, but those eggs are of course infertile. Bettas usually have around 100 eggs.
MM
I think the fry spawn from the eggs after a week or so.
males have the eggs!! for information go to this website
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles...
Do more web research. If you do have a female and she is expelling eggs,the she is egg-bound and probably very uncomfortable. Look up spawning Anabantids on the net. That should get you started.
Your female Betta is full of eggs but without a male you can't have any fry. When Betta's spawn they can have up to 500 fry. It is normal for this to happen if there is no male present. You could do a google search for Betta's and find some awesome info on them. Here are a few I found for you.
www.bettatalk.com
http://www.betta-fish-expert.com/?hop=tr...
http://www.healthybetta.com
http://ezinearticles.com/?ten-tips-for-c...
Males do not have the eggs they care for them.
A female does not get pregnant they spawn (lay eggs) typically in a bubble nest made by the male. if no male is available then the female will open spawn (spawn where ever)
the eggs are not viable without a male. as far as how many eggs that really depends on how old the female is the younger ones will not have as many eggs as a mature one and of course the older the get the fewer they will have.
Answers:
Female Betta's don't technically get pregnant. They lay eggs and those eggs must be fertilized by a male when they are laid before they will hatch. Sometimes a female will drop eggs even without a male available, but those eggs are of course infertile. Bettas usually have around 100 eggs.
MM
I think the fry spawn from the eggs after a week or so.
males have the eggs!! for information go to this website
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles...
Do more web research. If you do have a female and she is expelling eggs,the she is egg-bound and probably very uncomfortable. Look up spawning Anabantids on the net. That should get you started.
Your female Betta is full of eggs but without a male you can't have any fry. When Betta's spawn they can have up to 500 fry. It is normal for this to happen if there is no male present. You could do a google search for Betta's and find some awesome info on them. Here are a few I found for you.
www.bettatalk.com
http://www.betta-fish-expert.com/?hop=tr...
http://www.healthybetta.com
http://ezinearticles.com/?ten-tips-for-c...
Males do not have the eggs they care for them.
A female does not get pregnant they spawn (lay eggs) typically in a bubble nest made by the male. if no male is available then the female will open spawn (spawn where ever)
the eggs are not viable without a male. as far as how many eggs that really depends on how old the female is the younger ones will not have as many eggs as a mature one and of course the older the get the fewer they will have.
How long am i meant to keep the filter on in my fishtank?
should i always have it on? or just during the day?
Answers:
Filters are used to take out the ammonia, and other little particles in the tank.
So should have it on all the time.
Just like Bubbles said, It should run 24/7 except for routine maintenance.
MM
If possible leave it on continuously, night and day.
About two hours after you turn the filter off the beneficial bacteria start to die ,after 24 hours they will all be dead and the cycling process will have to start over from zero. Lots of water testing,lots of water changes,probably dead fish. Just let it run.
All the time.
You should leave it on 24/7. Or you could set it on a timer and let it run from 12 am and stop at 10:30 pm so it has some time to "cool down" from being on all day.
~ZTM
run it constantly! thats why there are warranties on them.
Answers:
Filters are used to take out the ammonia, and other little particles in the tank.
So should have it on all the time.
Just like Bubbles said, It should run 24/7 except for routine maintenance.
MM
If possible leave it on continuously, night and day.
About two hours after you turn the filter off the beneficial bacteria start to die ,after 24 hours they will all be dead and the cycling process will have to start over from zero. Lots of water testing,lots of water changes,probably dead fish. Just let it run.
All the time.
You should leave it on 24/7. Or you could set it on a timer and let it run from 12 am and stop at 10:30 pm so it has some time to "cool down" from being on all day.
~ZTM
run it constantly! thats why there are warranties on them.
How i come to know about fish pregnancy and get ready if they are?
Hi. I bought a fish aquarium in october.(wen winter starts).
Now it is May(summer starts).
I have 7 kissy fish( calm fishes) and 3 KARP(medium fast).
Do fishes breed in summer? They lay eggs or simply deliver nourished one? Do filter catch eggs? How to come to know if a fish is pregnant? If she is how to care for her? Oh GOD i know nothing , please help me out
Answers:
Here's some good info about your kissing fish:
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/anaban...
By Karp I assume you mean koi. Here;s some ingo about them:
http://www.olympickoiclub.org/koicare/br...
Hope that helps
MM
Now it is May(summer starts).
I have 7 kissy fish( calm fishes) and 3 KARP(medium fast).
Do fishes breed in summer? They lay eggs or simply deliver nourished one? Do filter catch eggs? How to come to know if a fish is pregnant? If she is how to care for her? Oh GOD i know nothing , please help me out
Answers:
Here's some good info about your kissing fish:
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/anaban...
By Karp I assume you mean koi. Here;s some ingo about them:
http://www.olympickoiclub.org/koicare/br...
Hope that helps
MM
How hard is the upkeep of salt-water aquariums in the home? Also,what fish would you recommend?
Answers:
Once you get the tank set up maintenance is about the same as fresh water there's a few extra things:
Check salt - be ready to adjust levels
Check water quality more often (I'd suggest once a week at least); again be ready to make adjustments.
Bigger tanks require less water changes, once monthly for anything bigger than a 55.
Here are a few things to consider and a few recommendations. Nothing smaller than a thirty gallon tank but buy the biggest tank you can afford.
Invest in a good filter.
If you want anything other than fish invest in a good protein skimmer.
Here's what you'll need.
Tank
Stand (wood is better - metal will rust faster due to the salt).
Marine salt
Hydrometer
Test strips
Heater
Filter
Protein skimmer (optional)
Dechlorinator (get Prime it's the best)
And you may need to get some sort of buffer it depends how the water is where you live.
Step up!
Fill tank half way with water - don't use a regular garden hose. If you use a hose make sure it's clear the regular green or black ones carry metal that's potentially deadly to aquarium inhabitants.
Use a bucket to start mixing in salt - make sure the salt mixes in you can't just add it to the tank because it will just sink to the bottom and not affect your salinity at all. The salt comes in bags or buckets that say for 50 gallons or 20 gallons or 125 gallons and so on - you can guess how much you'll need based on this and the gallons of your tank.
Once mostly full start measuring salinity with the hydrometer add salt or fresh water as needed to get levels right. The hydrometer will have a green area that's safe (around 1.022 - 1.024 is what I recommend - but see what your supplier keeps their tanks at and match your tank to theirs - it will make transitions easier).
The tank should then be left alone with filter running for 1 week. If you wish add live bacteria (through TLC, live rock or live sand after the salt levels are good).
Introduce damsels first - let them cycle the tank for around a month. If you want an aggressive tank go with domino or velvet damsels. For less to none aggressive fish use green chromis damsel. For in between use yellow tail or yellow belly damsels.
After than slowly add fish - clown fish are good for the second stage because they're fairly hardy.
For coral or anemones wait at least a month maybe 3 or 4 after the tank is fully cycled.
If you have problems with damsels of other fish being aggressive towards new fish move the rocks you put in a round, by the way provide plenty of hiding spaces.
When introducing new fish do a slow acclimation where you let the fish float for 15 minutes then drain most of the water out leave the fish in the bag and add some of your tank water every 5 minutes for 15 minutes. This will acclimate them to your salinity and water quality slowly and reduce fish loss.
Best of luck! :)
I havn't done salt because of the "hard" aspect. I have heard the larger the tank the easier. I know you have to be more dilligent in your water paramenters. A good fish to start with are the cute clowns. They are fairly inexpensive compared to other salt fish, so if they die its not as much a shock to your wallet. They are very cute as well. There are many fish related stuff on the webb. Start your search the information is out there.
Its definently involved but I like the challenge. To start off definently go with damsels theyre cheap and a good cycling fish(learn on them while you plan your real tank). I have a predator tank its a pain at feeding time getting all the dead stuff defrosted and stuff but a lot of fun to watch. I would recommend doing it if you dont mind the extra work due to the personalities of the fish as well as the fact that many will eat from your hands(eels, groupers(theyll jump out of the tank to eat from your hands :)), ect..). Its fun
It's not too terribly difficult. Keep in mind you have to change 10% of your water every 2 weeks I'd say. Damsels are what you want to start with becuase they will raise the bacteria levels in your tank that are essential to the "balance" of the tank. Also if your doing a reef tank you need 1lb of live rock per gallon. If you're doing an aggressive tank then you dont need alot unless you have an eel, they want caves. The bigger the tank the easier it is to care for and if you get lots of snails it will make it easier to clean because they do alot of it on their own. Good luck with your tank!
I find it just as easy as freshwater after everything is setup and cycled.
"I" test MY water every 2 months in my reef tank.not every week.
"I" do water changes every 2 months in my reef tank.not every 2 weeks
"I" add only Bio Cal as a supliment every 2 days, it has ALL the trace elliments needed.
"I" NEVER add any chemicals to my water.
I have NEVER lost a fish or Coral to POOR water quality, If you read most of these posts, water quality is a MAJOR problem with FRESHWATER fish.
I hope you can view these pics of my 75gal REEF and my 30gal. seahorse tanks, If not Just email me and I will send you an invite.
The 75gal has only been going for 8 months and the seahorse tank has been going for about 6 weeks.
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j.poiri...
That will depend on the type of tank you have and what you have in it. A fish only tank is easy. I have to disagree with 007 here you should test your water at the minimum of 1 time a week. Care is the same if not easier than a fresh water tank.
Rock and reef tanks are different when it comes to maintenance since you cannot just siphone the gravel and blow off the rock. You now have animals all over so cleaning is done a bit differently. 10% water change every two weeks especially for a new tank does nothing as far as water changes go. The same 25% water change every two weeks replaces calcium and much needed minerals in the water.
I have a 250 reef tank (email me with your regular address and I will send photos) which I do water changes and cleaning only once every 3-4 months depending on the water.
The 75 gets a water change once every two months the 55's every 6 weeks and the 30's every two. I do not run a skimmer on the 30 so a water change is needed more often. The filter is not the most important part of your salt tank the skimmer is. Removing the organic matter from the tank is what cleans it not the filter.
As far as fish go, no one can tell you what to have. You will need to have a well cycled or a mature tank or certain fish. As far as damsels go, they are highly aggressive fish and will pick on anything you put in the tank with them. they are inexpensive and good starter fish along with the clowns (also considered damsels). check out saltwaterfish.com and look at the fish available.
Make a blue print of what you want, i.e. live rock, coral, inverts and fish. Be sure they are compatable and start slow. Remember adding rock, inverts, crabs and coral all count as a fish. You need to allow your biofilter to adjust between each addition and no 3%265 fish or items at one time.
If you need more help feel free to email me.
How fast do koi grow?
i just purchased two small butterfly koi which i plan n keeping for a little while, I was wondering just how fast do they grow, in a tank environment
Answers:
See below for the koi growth chart. It's at the bottom of the page and will show the growth rate per month for the average koi.
I think they can grow up to 18 to 36 inches if you take care of them well and can live up to 35 years or more. But I guess that if you're keeping them in a tank, then it won't get that big (only up to how much the tank will allow).
Pretty damn fast!
Mine was 2" when I got him and in a year he was 8"!
脽眉bbl毛拧
Answers:
See below for the koi growth chart. It's at the bottom of the page and will show the growth rate per month for the average koi.
I think they can grow up to 18 to 36 inches if you take care of them well and can live up to 35 years or more. But I guess that if you're keeping them in a tank, then it won't get that big (only up to how much the tank will allow).
Pretty damn fast!
Mine was 2" when I got him and in a year he was 8"!
脽眉bbl毛拧
How fast do flowerhorns grow?
for any tank size, care and what maybe used, how fast and how long will a usual flowerhorn live
Answers:
For "any tank size" - upto 8 inches, colors will not flourish as well. If properly cared for and given a spacious tank, upto 14-16 inches with bright colors.
"Any Tank Size" - should not be less than 25-30 gallon.
Fh's live for about 10 years.
Flower Horn may grow up to approximately12 inches in length depending on its breed and may live to 8 to 10 years.
At first they grow quite fast, and you'll see a juvenile reach 6-7" in 6-8 months. The larger they get, they slower they grow, and it can take a couple of years to reach near full size - they keep growing a long, long time though, however slow it gets. If you keep it for their full lifespan, which can be up to 15 years, you'll have a fully grown fish of approximately 12". If you want to see them grow nicely, to full size, and live long, a 75 gallon is a minimum for these guys - 25 gallon is pretty much a prison cell for them.
But, there is no answer for 'any size tank', because too small a tank will slow their growth, as will poor water quality or diet. In addition, overfeeding a fish will increase growth, but force feeding for growth is not good for long term health and beauty of the fish.
Answers:
For "any tank size" - upto 8 inches, colors will not flourish as well. If properly cared for and given a spacious tank, upto 14-16 inches with bright colors.
"Any Tank Size" - should not be less than 25-30 gallon.
Fh's live for about 10 years.
Flower Horn may grow up to approximately12 inches in length depending on its breed and may live to 8 to 10 years.
At first they grow quite fast, and you'll see a juvenile reach 6-7" in 6-8 months. The larger they get, they slower they grow, and it can take a couple of years to reach near full size - they keep growing a long, long time though, however slow it gets. If you keep it for their full lifespan, which can be up to 15 years, you'll have a fully grown fish of approximately 12". If you want to see them grow nicely, to full size, and live long, a 75 gallon is a minimum for these guys - 25 gallon is pretty much a prison cell for them.
But, there is no answer for 'any size tank', because too small a tank will slow their growth, as will poor water quality or diet. In addition, overfeeding a fish will increase growth, but force feeding for growth is not good for long term health and beauty of the fish.
How does the Crawfish(Crayfish) reproduction process work?
My brother has a pet crawfish that he got from school(he's had about a month or two), and now it has these egg-like things on it. They look DISGUSTING!!! I looked up an image, and I am sure they are eggs, but I just need info about how/when/if they are going to hatch, and how many, and what to do with them, and how she has eggs in a tank all by herself. I just need info!!!
Answers:
Here's a link that should answer all your questions
http://www.crayfishworld.com/breeding.ht...
Hope that helps
MM
Answers:
Here's a link that should answer all your questions
http://www.crayfishworld.com/breeding.ht...
Hope that helps
MM
How does the clownfish embryo develop?
I need to know the embryo development of a clownfish for my science project
Answers:
Here is a great website on clownfish breeding and development. I would ask more specific questions in the future. Good Luck!
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/sa...
Here is another
www.millerandlevine.com/
km/evol/embryos/
Haeckel.html
Answers:
Here is a great website on clownfish breeding and development. I would ask more specific questions in the future. Good Luck!
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/sa...
Here is another
www.millerandlevine.com/
km/evol/embryos/
Haeckel.html
How does one take care of Dwarf Gouramis?
It would really nice to have those attractive fish, my friend had some 2 and they looked so awesome!
What tank requirements do they need?
Whats their ph, water hardness, temp, gallon requirement? Do they do good unigender or mixed gender, in pairs, alone? does the water need to be action packed or not?
Or are they just like any other tropical fish?
Answers:
Water is easy for them. I kept mine at 76F, 7.0ph 9dgh, 3dkh, 0.06% salinity.
Increase the temperature to 78-80 to make them breed like bunnies.
I kept crystalwort %26 java moss in the tank loose for them to build spit %26 vegetable nests out of.
Slower moving water is good, lighting is irrelevant one way or another (i had mine in a 36g under 110 watts of light).
They will eat flake food %26 freeze dried foods well. They're not very picky.
Social aspects are the hardest part of the fish to work on. The males can be very territorial. Most tanks can only handle one or two males, with 3 females per male. They're also hostile to other community fish, especially those of the splendin family (like bettas), so you have to pick your tankmates carefully. The males are pretty skilled fighters for their size.
If you only have one female for a male, he will bang her to death with mating attempts.
No cavework is necessary, they spend most of their time at the top %26 middle of the tank.
The only thing I didn't like about them was how much space they needed. For one colorful male to take up so much space for his personal territory was too much for me. I preferred to have other fish that could be kept at higher densities.
These guys seemed to catch ICK really easially from the stress of moving them from the store to home. They got rid of it pretty easially also. Extra salt %26 temperature did the trick for me.
Edit: For your tank size, get 1 male %26 3 females. The male will kill any other males in a tank that size.
Dwarf gouramis are great little fish. They are taken care of like most tropical community fish. They do prefer slower moving water but not still. Most dwarfs with lots of color are male. I would not keep more than 1 male in a tank that size. If you can get females ordered in for you than you can have several. In my experiance anything smaller than a 55 gal can be too small for 2 aggressive dwarfs (not common but I dont like taking the chance a fish I bring home is going to die because of its tnak mate). Good Luck!
This will answer your questions...
I have 5 of them. Along with 5 clown loaches, 4 red tailed silver barbs, 6 tiger barbs, 3 yo yo loaches, 2 polka dot Burmese Border loaches, 2 plecostumus, 5 Australian rainbows, 1 striped peacock eel, and 1 African Albino underwater frog. Very easy to take care of. They can be kept in a tropical community tank. Every now and again they can get slightly aggressive, but this is rare and they're pretty small and won't do much damage. Temp is between 76-83F. pH bewteen 6.8-7.6 (7.2 ideal for community) They can live in hard water, but I have adjusted mine to soft because of the others. I believe I have 2 males and 3 females they seem fine. Really the only requirement is a floating or slow sinking food because they like to stay at the top most of the time. My tank is semi action packed and they seem to do just fine. You could probably keep up to 10 in a 10 gallon, they will only get 3in max
What tank requirements do they need?
Whats their ph, water hardness, temp, gallon requirement? Do they do good unigender or mixed gender, in pairs, alone? does the water need to be action packed or not?
Or are they just like any other tropical fish?
Answers:
Water is easy for them. I kept mine at 76F, 7.0ph 9dgh, 3dkh, 0.06% salinity.
Increase the temperature to 78-80 to make them breed like bunnies.
I kept crystalwort %26 java moss in the tank loose for them to build spit %26 vegetable nests out of.
Slower moving water is good, lighting is irrelevant one way or another (i had mine in a 36g under 110 watts of light).
They will eat flake food %26 freeze dried foods well. They're not very picky.
Social aspects are the hardest part of the fish to work on. The males can be very territorial. Most tanks can only handle one or two males, with 3 females per male. They're also hostile to other community fish, especially those of the splendin family (like bettas), so you have to pick your tankmates carefully. The males are pretty skilled fighters for their size.
If you only have one female for a male, he will bang her to death with mating attempts.
No cavework is necessary, they spend most of their time at the top %26 middle of the tank.
The only thing I didn't like about them was how much space they needed. For one colorful male to take up so much space for his personal territory was too much for me. I preferred to have other fish that could be kept at higher densities.
These guys seemed to catch ICK really easially from the stress of moving them from the store to home. They got rid of it pretty easially also. Extra salt %26 temperature did the trick for me.
Edit: For your tank size, get 1 male %26 3 females. The male will kill any other males in a tank that size.
Dwarf gouramis are great little fish. They are taken care of like most tropical community fish. They do prefer slower moving water but not still. Most dwarfs with lots of color are male. I would not keep more than 1 male in a tank that size. If you can get females ordered in for you than you can have several. In my experiance anything smaller than a 55 gal can be too small for 2 aggressive dwarfs (not common but I dont like taking the chance a fish I bring home is going to die because of its tnak mate). Good Luck!
This will answer your questions...
I have 5 of them. Along with 5 clown loaches, 4 red tailed silver barbs, 6 tiger barbs, 3 yo yo loaches, 2 polka dot Burmese Border loaches, 2 plecostumus, 5 Australian rainbows, 1 striped peacock eel, and 1 African Albino underwater frog. Very easy to take care of. They can be kept in a tropical community tank. Every now and again they can get slightly aggressive, but this is rare and they're pretty small and won't do much damage. Temp is between 76-83F. pH bewteen 6.8-7.6 (7.2 ideal for community) They can live in hard water, but I have adjusted mine to soft because of the others. I believe I have 2 males and 3 females they seem fine. Really the only requirement is a floating or slow sinking food because they like to stay at the top most of the time. My tank is semi action packed and they seem to do just fine. You could probably keep up to 10 in a 10 gallon, they will only get 3in max
How does an underwater gravel filter for fish tanks work?
currently have one it came with the tank but tank has gone ever so cloudy all of a sudden
Answers:
The problem is that your tank is cycling. It sounds like you just set this up and added some fish. The cloudy water is actually pretty common in this situation.
Your fish produce ammonia as part of their wastes. This is toxic to your fish. In a mature tank (and in nature) bacteria convert this into nitrite (which is also toxic), then int nitrate (which your fish can tolerate in a moderate amount). But your tank is new, so you don't have enough of the right kinds of bacteria in it yet. Some are there and they're reproducing as long as ammonia and nitrite (their food sources) are being produced. It's this rapid reproduction by bacteria that you're seeing as cloudy water. It's not anything you're doing wrong, and it's not that the filter isn't working!
You should monitor the ammonia and nitrite so you can do partial water changes when these start to get too high for your fish. You don't want to clean too thoroughly or remove too much water (about 25% once a week is enough unless your water tests show you need it sooner) or you'll set the bacteria back and have cloudy water for even longer. It will clear on it's own in 4-8 weeks usually.
You can avoid buildups under the undergravel filter by using a powerhead (gives better water circulation than an airstone so the filter will work better) that has a reverse flow setting and using the reversed flow to pump wate down the tube and up through the gravel.
Under gravel filters are supposed to work by sucking the waste products of the fish down into the gravel. However over time the gravel becomes fully loaded with waste and the filtration stops working.
It also requires that when you clean the filter you need to wash all the gravel.
Better of upgrading and getting a stand alone filter for the tank with a washable filter.
an under water gravel filter works by pushing air up and sucking water down like a ventury when the water gets sucked down through the gravel it is filterd but when the gravel starts to get dirty then you need to clean it.
Answers:
The problem is that your tank is cycling. It sounds like you just set this up and added some fish. The cloudy water is actually pretty common in this situation.
Your fish produce ammonia as part of their wastes. This is toxic to your fish. In a mature tank (and in nature) bacteria convert this into nitrite (which is also toxic), then int nitrate (which your fish can tolerate in a moderate amount). But your tank is new, so you don't have enough of the right kinds of bacteria in it yet. Some are there and they're reproducing as long as ammonia and nitrite (their food sources) are being produced. It's this rapid reproduction by bacteria that you're seeing as cloudy water. It's not anything you're doing wrong, and it's not that the filter isn't working!
You should monitor the ammonia and nitrite so you can do partial water changes when these start to get too high for your fish. You don't want to clean too thoroughly or remove too much water (about 25% once a week is enough unless your water tests show you need it sooner) or you'll set the bacteria back and have cloudy water for even longer. It will clear on it's own in 4-8 weeks usually.
You can avoid buildups under the undergravel filter by using a powerhead (gives better water circulation than an airstone so the filter will work better) that has a reverse flow setting and using the reversed flow to pump wate down the tube and up through the gravel.
Under gravel filters are supposed to work by sucking the waste products of the fish down into the gravel. However over time the gravel becomes fully loaded with waste and the filtration stops working.
It also requires that when you clean the filter you need to wash all the gravel.
Better of upgrading and getting a stand alone filter for the tank with a washable filter.
an under water gravel filter works by pushing air up and sucking water down like a ventury when the water gets sucked down through the gravel it is filterd but when the gravel starts to get dirty then you need to clean it.
How does a prblem keep you from sleeping?
Answers:
I'm sorry, your in the wrong section. Post your question in the "Social Science" section. But now that your in "Fish", get a lit aquarium and watch it before you go it sleep, all your problems flow away in the watery beauty...
because you cant relax, your mind is concentrated on something, it can't relax and let it go.
when you keep thinking about it all night.
Very easily.
Its easy to sleep when you don't have a conscience.
If you are thinking about a problem, you are not relaxed enough to fall asleep.
i think because your so worried about it so ur head just keeps thinking about stuff and you cant go to sleep
idk?! sorry haha
The pattern of your brain waves must slow for sleep. Conscious thought disturbs that.
because you cant relax when you are really stressed out
yo can get so mad (even without knoin it) that your heart rate goes fast and faster not letting you relax and sleep, and when somethin bugs you that much most people get tense and at night your muscles get sore and you roll around all night with no sleep... stress sucks be stress free
Its a trick question because it has nothing to do with fish. >.>
Because you are concentrating on that problem, and you can't relax.
Because something in the back of your head is bothering you.
Fish don't sleep anyway, no eyelids...but they do go through a circadian cycle. Also, I don't think fish worry about problems too much; they swim, they eat, they poop, that's about it.
Your fish isn't sleeping? Your mind doesn't rest if it's troubled.
How does a fish get Tail Rot? And is there a Treatment?
Our school fish is dying with it and we want to know if we can help him...
Answers:
Tail rot, fin rot and saddle back disease are all forms of the same problem. They are all caused by various bacteria of the Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Flexibacter genra and are readily treatable with proper antibiotics. Medications such as Melafix and Pimafix usually will not stop a cause of fin rot once the fish is showing symptoms but is instead a general preventative treatment. I would suggest treatment with Maracyn TC or Maracyn 2 once the fish has a significant case of tail rot.
With tail rot, you will see the edges look torm or frayed and usually white along the boarder of the infected area. If treated promptly, it responds well to treatment and the affected fin will grow back in a short time. Once it gets to the actual flesh of the fish it is called penducle disease and it far more difficult to treat and the damaged fin will rarely grow back.
Fungus may also be present at the site of the infection and would add a cottony like appearance to the edges of the fin. If this is the case you will also need to treat for the fungus.
MM
It is known as fin rot and you can get a treament solution from a shop that sells this type of thing.
However, I'm sorry to say that if it is really bad even treating the rot it may be too late. Someone needs to take responsibility of this fish and make sure that it does not suffer any longer than necessary.
In future make sure that any fish you keep is kept in clean water and any uneaten food is removed from the pond or aquarium. As uneaten food causes bacteria that will eventually contaminate the water and this can cause fin rot in fish.
Take care and I hope your wee fish recovers.
FIN AND TAIL ROT = Usually the first thing you notice is that the tail starts getting ragged looking. Sort of like a plate that has a chip or 2 out of it or it looks like some one has taken a few bites out of it. As time goes on more and more of the tail and fins will rot off. Usually there will be the starts of Fungus on the torn ends. Again, as time goes on this will increase as well.
You don't mention what type of fish you have..but bala sharks are extremely susceptible and it kills them rapidly. Others seem to respond well and quickly to treatment.
Coppersafe is the best treatment. Use for 10 days. Make sure that its safe for any catfish or other types of "scaleless" fish in your tank. It's good to use for 30 days because after being sick, they're immune systems are down and they can get another type of illness quickly.
Tail rot is as far as I am aware a fungus much like white spot. Your local pet shop or Aquatic centre will have a solution to put in the water that should help. I had a Silver shark with tail rot a couple of years ago, I isolated him in a separate tank and treated him with a solution from my local store and it cleared right up. He lasted another 5 years!
There may be more than one cause of tail rot, so best to seek advice from the experts. Good Luck.
Go to a Pet store and tell then about your fish. They will sell you an antibiotic for this problem. The rot is generally caused by a fungus or microbacteria. It is curable but you must follow the directions carefully. You may have to remove the fish from the main tank and keel him isolated for awhile.
a good product to use is Melafix and Pimafix.
Add melafix.
Answers:
Tail rot, fin rot and saddle back disease are all forms of the same problem. They are all caused by various bacteria of the Aeromonas, Pseudomonas or Flexibacter genra and are readily treatable with proper antibiotics. Medications such as Melafix and Pimafix usually will not stop a cause of fin rot once the fish is showing symptoms but is instead a general preventative treatment. I would suggest treatment with Maracyn TC or Maracyn 2 once the fish has a significant case of tail rot.
With tail rot, you will see the edges look torm or frayed and usually white along the boarder of the infected area. If treated promptly, it responds well to treatment and the affected fin will grow back in a short time. Once it gets to the actual flesh of the fish it is called penducle disease and it far more difficult to treat and the damaged fin will rarely grow back.
Fungus may also be present at the site of the infection and would add a cottony like appearance to the edges of the fin. If this is the case you will also need to treat for the fungus.
MM
It is known as fin rot and you can get a treament solution from a shop that sells this type of thing.
However, I'm sorry to say that if it is really bad even treating the rot it may be too late. Someone needs to take responsibility of this fish and make sure that it does not suffer any longer than necessary.
In future make sure that any fish you keep is kept in clean water and any uneaten food is removed from the pond or aquarium. As uneaten food causes bacteria that will eventually contaminate the water and this can cause fin rot in fish.
Take care and I hope your wee fish recovers.
FIN AND TAIL ROT = Usually the first thing you notice is that the tail starts getting ragged looking. Sort of like a plate that has a chip or 2 out of it or it looks like some one has taken a few bites out of it. As time goes on more and more of the tail and fins will rot off. Usually there will be the starts of Fungus on the torn ends. Again, as time goes on this will increase as well.
You don't mention what type of fish you have..but bala sharks are extremely susceptible and it kills them rapidly. Others seem to respond well and quickly to treatment.
Coppersafe is the best treatment. Use for 10 days. Make sure that its safe for any catfish or other types of "scaleless" fish in your tank. It's good to use for 30 days because after being sick, they're immune systems are down and they can get another type of illness quickly.
Tail rot is as far as I am aware a fungus much like white spot. Your local pet shop or Aquatic centre will have a solution to put in the water that should help. I had a Silver shark with tail rot a couple of years ago, I isolated him in a separate tank and treated him with a solution from my local store and it cleared right up. He lasted another 5 years!
There may be more than one cause of tail rot, so best to seek advice from the experts. Good Luck.
Go to a Pet store and tell then about your fish. They will sell you an antibiotic for this problem. The rot is generally caused by a fungus or microbacteria. It is curable but you must follow the directions carefully. You may have to remove the fish from the main tank and keel him isolated for awhile.
a good product to use is Melafix and Pimafix.
Add melafix.
How do you use a fluval 404?
i got a fluval 404 but its not sucking the water. do i need to suck on the end of the pipe?> it does havea pump...i have pumped the hell out of it but still nothing. i filled the filter up with water.
Answers:
Empty the filter. Put the intake in the water,where it will be located in the final installation. Get a bucket or fairly large container of some sort,(at least 2 or 3 gallons).Take the outlet stuff off of the outlet hose. Suck,until the siphoning action fills the filter(the outlet must be near floor level).Put your thumb over the end of the outlet,reconnect and turn on. Think about it. You can't start a siphon with water in the middle of the hose. Repeat this operation for as many times as it takes for you to understand what you are doing. By the way, was there anything in the written instructions about starting the filter? Did you read them?
You can check it out in www.hagen.com or just get your phone and call the store from where you bought it and ask them, its their duty to guide you in the set up. You bought it new, they sell them and they would tell you easily.
I use a Fluval 4 internal hang-on in one of my goldfish tanks.
I find the pump start the cheapest component on the fluval filter. A quick and firm suck on the output hose will get the water moving and gravity will take over and fill it in seconds.
This way is a bit messy, but works like a charm.
First, fill the canister all the way up. Place it where you want it.
Then, run the hoses where you want, but make sure you can still get access to them.
Attach the hoses to the filter, opening up the valves.
Get a pitcher of water and a funnel.
Take the funnel and use it to fill up both hoses, all the way to the top.
Put the attachments on the appropriate nozzles, place them in the tank, and fire up the filter.
Depending on whether or not you lost water when putting the hoses back in the tank, you may have to pump 3 or 4 times...
done.
Answers:
Empty the filter. Put the intake in the water,where it will be located in the final installation. Get a bucket or fairly large container of some sort,(at least 2 or 3 gallons).Take the outlet stuff off of the outlet hose. Suck,until the siphoning action fills the filter(the outlet must be near floor level).Put your thumb over the end of the outlet,reconnect and turn on. Think about it. You can't start a siphon with water in the middle of the hose. Repeat this operation for as many times as it takes for you to understand what you are doing. By the way, was there anything in the written instructions about starting the filter? Did you read them?
You can check it out in www.hagen.com or just get your phone and call the store from where you bought it and ask them, its their duty to guide you in the set up. You bought it new, they sell them and they would tell you easily.
I use a Fluval 4 internal hang-on in one of my goldfish tanks.
I find the pump start the cheapest component on the fluval filter. A quick and firm suck on the output hose will get the water moving and gravity will take over and fill it in seconds.
This way is a bit messy, but works like a charm.
First, fill the canister all the way up. Place it where you want it.
Then, run the hoses where you want, but make sure you can still get access to them.
Attach the hoses to the filter, opening up the valves.
Get a pitcher of water and a funnel.
Take the funnel and use it to fill up both hoses, all the way to the top.
Put the attachments on the appropriate nozzles, place them in the tank, and fire up the filter.
Depending on whether or not you lost water when putting the hoses back in the tank, you may have to pump 3 or 4 times...
done.
How do you tell the difference between male and female African Cichlids?
i have a few africans that ive had for a while now... there at least a year old...i grew them from about half an inch and now they are probally about two... how do i tell the difference between them? i have some convicts in the tank with them that are about the same age... but they have laid eggs many times... and i even have some babies that grew to the same size as the adults
thanks
Answers:
thats easy the britter and more vibrant color is the male and duller 1 female
It really depends strongly on the species you have. Different types have different distinguishing features. If you know the names of any of them, please add that to the additional comments of your question.
MM
If you know the names it will be a great help as there are many different types with different characteristics.
These web sites might also help you
http://www.malawimayhem.com
http://www.cichlid-forum.com
Edit -I just noticed your other question ,if you have yellow labs it is hard to tell the males and females apart
http://www.malawimayhem.com/profile_show...
http://www.geocities.com/vatoelvis/sexin...
Depending on the breed, Males normally have a big hump on their foreheads. Males tend to be bigger and grow faster. So if you have 2 of the same fish and one seems to be getting bigger faster than the other, then that one is probably a male. Also, the anal fin usually comes to a point on males and rounds out for females. Certain breeds like the Zebra cichlids have spots on their anal fins too that make it easy to tell.
thanks
Answers:
thats easy the britter and more vibrant color is the male and duller 1 female
It really depends strongly on the species you have. Different types have different distinguishing features. If you know the names of any of them, please add that to the additional comments of your question.
MM
If you know the names it will be a great help as there are many different types with different characteristics.
These web sites might also help you
http://www.malawimayhem.com
http://www.cichlid-forum.com
Edit -I just noticed your other question ,if you have yellow labs it is hard to tell the males and females apart
http://www.malawimayhem.com/profile_show...
http://www.geocities.com/vatoelvis/sexin...
Depending on the breed, Males normally have a big hump on their foreheads. Males tend to be bigger and grow faster. So if you have 2 of the same fish and one seems to be getting bigger faster than the other, then that one is probably a male. Also, the anal fin usually comes to a point on males and rounds out for females. Certain breeds like the Zebra cichlids have spots on their anal fins too that make it easy to tell.
How do you tell the difference between acrylic and glass walls of an aquarium? Can you drill through acrylic?
Answers:
One is certainly the price tag, acrylic is far more expensive in most cases. Secondly is the feel. Acrylic is plastic and for lack of a better way to put it feels like plastic. Glass will feel harder and colder as well. Another dead give away is the corners. Glass tanks are held together with silicone while acrylic tanks are bent to form seamless corners.
Either glass or acrylic can be drilled if handled correctly. Acrylic is far easier to drill.
MM
Acrylic scratches very easily. I've polished many tanks over the year, but glass holds up better, though I've re-caulked many of them too. You can drill through either, though for glass, special tools are needed.
How do you tell if molly's are male or female?
i have four molly's i know two are female because their pregnant but i don't know about the other two!!!
Answers:
Well, if you look beneath the fish, the females will have a very round body whereas the males have a pointed anal fin under their body. Search on google.co.uk for images
:)
What is a molly? LOL
Whatever they are, you know at least one of the other two is male since you have 2 preggo ones!
Look at the bottom fin it front of the poop drop hole. The male have a slim fin like a "Wanger" and the females are more full. Best I can explain. Many live bearers are like this; Sword-tails, Platties and Moons etc., but, not all.
Female; http://www.goliadfarms.com/images/fish/l...
Male top and female below; http://republika.pl/blog_fc_579584/10547...
Just look at that bottom fin and you will see, reguardless of "Type" of molly.
Here's a picture of a male molly:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/sbs/liveb...
and a female:
http://tropicalfishgallery.com/species-g...
Look at the bottom rear fin. In the male it's pointed and thin, in the female it looks like normal fin. That's the best way to tell them apart.
MM
Answers:
Well, if you look beneath the fish, the females will have a very round body whereas the males have a pointed anal fin under their body. Search on google.co.uk for images
:)
What is a molly? LOL
Whatever they are, you know at least one of the other two is male since you have 2 preggo ones!
Look at the bottom fin it front of the poop drop hole. The male have a slim fin like a "Wanger" and the females are more full. Best I can explain. Many live bearers are like this; Sword-tails, Platties and Moons etc., but, not all.
Female; http://www.goliadfarms.com/images/fish/l...
Male top and female below; http://republika.pl/blog_fc_579584/10547...
Just look at that bottom fin and you will see, reguardless of "Type" of molly.
Here's a picture of a male molly:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/sbs/liveb...
and a female:
http://tropicalfishgallery.com/species-g...
Look at the bottom rear fin. In the male it's pointed and thin, in the female it looks like normal fin. That's the best way to tell them apart.
MM
How do you tell a male from a female?
i have two kissing gouramis how do i tell if they are male or female and if i have a pair how do you breed them a couple of sites said they make bubble nest some said plant nester please help me ps they are pink kissers
Answers:
It's hard to tell.
You'd have to wait until they breed, and which one lays the eggs...
ßübblëš
The females are characteristically fatter.
There are no visible differences. The female is fatter during the spawning season.
This species is difficult to breed. Higher end of the temperature range required for breeding, between 78 and 80 degrees. Provide floating vegetation or a Styrofoam cup sliced in half lengthwise. No bubblers or you break up the male’s bubble nest. He’ll coax her under his bubble dome and “squeeze out” hundreds of tiny, floating eggs. Once the eggs appear, you can remove the parents. Gourami eggs float. The fry also float (because of a tiny bit of oil in each yolk sac). Eggs hatch in around 24 hours. Their eggs as well as the fry, are lighter than water and float to the top.
Boys have a penis, girls have a vagina! Lol! Sorry I couldn't help it.
try this, I extracted this from the following link.
http://www.attention-to-details.com/news...
The way to tell the difference between male and female kissing gourami is to look at their sides. The males look like you pinched them on either side between you finger and thumb.You will see small indents. The females are full and rounder.
Answers:
It's hard to tell.
You'd have to wait until they breed, and which one lays the eggs...
ßübblëš
The females are characteristically fatter.
There are no visible differences. The female is fatter during the spawning season.
This species is difficult to breed. Higher end of the temperature range required for breeding, between 78 and 80 degrees. Provide floating vegetation or a Styrofoam cup sliced in half lengthwise. No bubblers or you break up the male’s bubble nest. He’ll coax her under his bubble dome and “squeeze out” hundreds of tiny, floating eggs. Once the eggs appear, you can remove the parents. Gourami eggs float. The fry also float (because of a tiny bit of oil in each yolk sac). Eggs hatch in around 24 hours. Their eggs as well as the fry, are lighter than water and float to the top.
Boys have a penis, girls have a vagina! Lol! Sorry I couldn't help it.
try this, I extracted this from the following link.
http://www.attention-to-details.com/news...
The way to tell the difference between male and female kissing gourami is to look at their sides. The males look like you pinched them on either side between you finger and thumb.You will see small indents. The females are full and rounder.
How do you tell a boy goldfish from a girl goldfish?
Answers:
This is not easy as these fish do not have distinctively gendered genitals in the way that mammals do. Male gold fish, shubunkin and carp are generally more slender in shape than females. Females tend to be chubbier and almost pear shaped.
However, as fish do not eat in the colder months and survive off their fat reserves their shape will be misleading outside the breeding season. In the warmer, breeding months the males develop distinctive spotting around the gills and on their heads. These little bumps are white and quite noticeable during the breeding season. Watching their behaviour at this time will also offer clues to gender.
The male fish try to stimulate breeding by chasing the females around the pond or aquarium. They deliberately bump into the females to stimulate spawning. However, if you wait until you see these signs it will be a little late to start a selective breeding programme. Once the female has spawned the male will quickly deposit his milt over her eggs. Fertilisation only takes 20 minutes and so, by then, it will be far too late for the fish keeper to intervene.
the girl always has her mouth open
Garb it's crotch and see if there are any avocados down there.
the boy goldfish is the one trying to get away from the girl fish,lol
I'm no expert on goldfish, but, I think in mating season, the male gets stripes on his dorsalfin.
Goldfish are one of the fish that are very hard to sex. Here is a web link that has info AND pictures to help you with it.
Here's a link that describes what to look for and includes photos.
http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/gold...
MM
MM and Barb both have good websites.
Here's another interesting one: http://www.blurtit.com/q711613.html...
How do you tell a male pleco from a female pleco ?
I have 3 large pleco's and i thought maybe i would try to breed them. Can you tell the difference male vs female ?
Answers:
According to Vires about Pleco's, ''Gender is difficult to notice unless the fish are at full breeding size.
Probably the easiest way to sex these fishes is by the shape of their foreheads. Males have a flatter, more leveled slope to their foreheads and are slightly wider. Females have a more rounded forehead and are slightly plumper when in spawning condition.
There is no other noticeable difference in colors or finshapes and growth in either.''
Answers:
According to Vires about Pleco's, ''Gender is difficult to notice unless the fish are at full breeding size.
Probably the easiest way to sex these fishes is by the shape of their foreheads. Males have a flatter, more leveled slope to their foreheads and are slightly wider. Females have a more rounded forehead and are slightly plumper when in spawning condition.
There is no other noticeable difference in colors or finshapes and growth in either.''
How do you start a bottom filter for a fish tank?
Answers:
I'm assuming you're asking about an undergravel filter (although corner bottom filters would work much in the same way). You first need to have the plate(s) put on the bottom of the tank. Insert the uptake tubes and cover the bottom with gravel.
Now you can run the filter by one of two ways, either using an air pump or powerhead.
The undergravel probably came with some thin tubing. There should be a rigid (stiff) piece that threads up through the top piece (elbow). Slide this through and you can attach an airstone at the bottom end with a short piece of flexible tubing (having the airstone is optional). Connect the top of the rigid tube to a longer piece of flexible tubing and attach this to the connector of your air pump. If you've got multiple uplift tubes, you can by small plastic or metal connectors to combine the tubing into one or two pieces, depending on the number of connectors on the airpump.
The above will work, but is probably the least efficient method of using an undergravel filter because the flow through the gravel is relatively limited.
Powerheads can be used by sitting them directly on the uptake tubes from the filter plate (you can't use the elbows or rigid plastic tubes with this). The motor driven powerhead moves the water at a faster speed, so more biological filteration can take place. As vort3xyz mentioned, better powerheads can have the direction of flow reversed, so there isn't any buildup of "gunk" underneath the filter which would need to be removed periodically otherwise.
I do use undergravel filters on some of my tanks, but never as the sole type of filtration. I like them mostly for taller tanks, or larger tanks with "messy" fish (cichlids, plecos, goldfish). See more about the pros and cons of this type of filtration in the links below:
If your tank is already set up you have to take it apart and put the filter in the bottom of the tank. Save the water and don't clean the gravel because it has all the good bacteria that keeps your tank clean. If your just starting out, put the filter in the bottom of the tank, add your gravel attach the air lines to the air pump and your ready for water.
Don't do it... Just get a filter with a bio-wheel from Marineland, penguin, etc... The bottom / ugf filter is 1960's technolgy whose time has passed. Its only around becaue old fogeys will not give it up. Unless you run them in reverse in a sand filled aquarium to eliminated dead zones in the sand, they're not much use compared to altertantive technologies for biological filtration.
The UGF will clog eventually %26 its a pain to service. From day one they start at their peak potential %26 go downhill as time goes by. Bio-wheels are only 3-4 inches wide %26 take little or no service. As they age they work better and at any appropriate size, they're many times more effective than undergravel fitlers.
How do you sex Red Top Labricrhomis?
They are a semi rare species of cichlids and I cant sex mine I think one male is submitting to another
Answers:
Is this a Red Top Kimpuma? The name is spelled Labidochromis, so you may find more info if you look them up using these names.
There should be a color difference between males an females, with the dominant males being a brighter lavender and the anal fin coloration should be yellow with a black stripe through it. In females and submissive males, the body would be duller, either brown or pale lavender, but the anal fin will let you tell these apart. The females have an anal fin that's just black with some white along the front edge. So you should be able to determine the sex if yours are both adults.
Answers:
Is this a Red Top Kimpuma? The name is spelled Labidochromis, so you may find more info if you look them up using these names.
There should be a color difference between males an females, with the dominant males being a brighter lavender and the anal fin coloration should be yellow with a black stripe through it. In females and submissive males, the body would be duller, either brown or pale lavender, but the anal fin will let you tell these apart. The females have an anal fin that's just black with some white along the front edge. So you should be able to determine the sex if yours are both adults.
How do you set up a new goldfish?
my son just got a goldfish from one of those carnival games and we're needing to know what we need to do to set up it's new home. We were given a small bowl but i've heard you need a much larger tank. do we need to get it filters and a bigger tank? first time fish owner so we need all the advice we can get.
Answers:
Let me third that..you most definitely DO need a filter and a larger tank. Fishbowls and goldfish are not at all compatible. They produce a huge amount of waste and can grow extremely large. Your best bet is what was suggested above. A ten gallon tank starter kit from Walmart, Kmart, Petsmart, etc would be fine. Most will have a hood with lights (preferrably flourescent as incandescent causes a bit more algae growth in my experience), a filter, a heater (which you won't need) and maybe some food and water conditioners. The only other thing you'd need is some gravel (1lb per gallon is the rule). Typically I recommend using distilled water (from the grocery store) or reverse osmosis (r/o) water from a pet store. Both will be free of tap water chemicals. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least a day, preferrably two before putting the fish in. After that it's just a matter of making sure your son doesn't overfeed. A tiny pinch once in the morning and once a night (the fish's stomach is the size of his eyeball) and if you can get a small net, scoop out whatever he doesn't eat after a minute.
Goldfish can live upwards of 10 years if taken good care of. Here's hoping you enjoy yours for years to come :)
No you dont need filters all you need is a goldfish bowl that you can probably get at a pet store or wal-mart,They will get bigger according to the size of the tank/bowl they wont get really big if you have a goldfish bowl because they wont have any room.I would go to a pet stor to get the food you feed it a pinch of food everyday.When you clean the bowl DO NOT clean it with soap because that could posibly kill the fish.Buy fish rocks and plants you couls also get those at a pet store.Keep the tempature of the water between cold and warm .Not to hot not to cold.Clean the tank at least once a week or once every second week or whenever the tank gets cloudy.I would get more info from a petstore.
Sorry I beg to defer, you'll need a proper tank with proper filtration.
You should get a 10 gallon tank and a filter thats suitable for the tank size.
You need to cycle your tank, since it's new and you you'll probably have to use the goldfish that you already have as your source of ammonia.
You should get 3 basic test kit as a your tools. You'll need a kit to test for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. During cycling, do test the water routinely for Ammonia and Nitrite and change water of the tank when the reading reaches the bad level (the test kit should test you which reading is bad). Change 20%~30% each time and the cycling process should finish in a months time.
You can generally get a starter tank from places like WalMart or PetCo. fairly cheap and the tank usually includes a kit to get you started (filter, small can of food, bubbler, tank ornament, etc.) If your starter tank doesn't include it I recommend purchasing stress coat and water conditioner also. Be sure when you set it up you use distilled water. Also, about every two months throw in a small wedge of orange, goldfish don't produce vitamin C naturally and welcome the tasty little treat. Just remember, they're pond fish and are quite hearty. You would be amazed what they can survive. Good luck!
Hi-You are quite right-he (or she!) will need a filter %26 the biggest tank you can reasonably get, well done for your thoughtfulness! There is rather a lot to take in at first regarding caring for a Goldfish properly but rather than overload you with information on here, have a read through this link at your leisure, also perhaps join a good Goldfish forum such as the one listed below-they will be happy to advise you on anything you need to know! %26lt;o)))%26lt;
You should at least get a 2.5-5 gallon tank for one goldfish. They poop alot, so you will need a filter. You don't need a heater, because they live in cold water. Read some books and stuff on how to care for goldfish also.
Answers:
Let me third that..you most definitely DO need a filter and a larger tank. Fishbowls and goldfish are not at all compatible. They produce a huge amount of waste and can grow extremely large. Your best bet is what was suggested above. A ten gallon tank starter kit from Walmart, Kmart, Petsmart, etc would be fine. Most will have a hood with lights (preferrably flourescent as incandescent causes a bit more algae growth in my experience), a filter, a heater (which you won't need) and maybe some food and water conditioners. The only other thing you'd need is some gravel (1lb per gallon is the rule). Typically I recommend using distilled water (from the grocery store) or reverse osmosis (r/o) water from a pet store. Both will be free of tap water chemicals. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least a day, preferrably two before putting the fish in. After that it's just a matter of making sure your son doesn't overfeed. A tiny pinch once in the morning and once a night (the fish's stomach is the size of his eyeball) and if you can get a small net, scoop out whatever he doesn't eat after a minute.
Goldfish can live upwards of 10 years if taken good care of. Here's hoping you enjoy yours for years to come :)
No you dont need filters all you need is a goldfish bowl that you can probably get at a pet store or wal-mart,They will get bigger according to the size of the tank/bowl they wont get really big if you have a goldfish bowl because they wont have any room.I would go to a pet stor to get the food you feed it a pinch of food everyday.When you clean the bowl DO NOT clean it with soap because that could posibly kill the fish.Buy fish rocks and plants you couls also get those at a pet store.Keep the tempature of the water between cold and warm .Not to hot not to cold.Clean the tank at least once a week or once every second week or whenever the tank gets cloudy.I would get more info from a petstore.
Sorry I beg to defer, you'll need a proper tank with proper filtration.
You should get a 10 gallon tank and a filter thats suitable for the tank size.
You need to cycle your tank, since it's new and you you'll probably have to use the goldfish that you already have as your source of ammonia.
You should get 3 basic test kit as a your tools. You'll need a kit to test for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. During cycling, do test the water routinely for Ammonia and Nitrite and change water of the tank when the reading reaches the bad level (the test kit should test you which reading is bad). Change 20%~30% each time and the cycling process should finish in a months time.
You can generally get a starter tank from places like WalMart or PetCo. fairly cheap and the tank usually includes a kit to get you started (filter, small can of food, bubbler, tank ornament, etc.) If your starter tank doesn't include it I recommend purchasing stress coat and water conditioner also. Be sure when you set it up you use distilled water. Also, about every two months throw in a small wedge of orange, goldfish don't produce vitamin C naturally and welcome the tasty little treat. Just remember, they're pond fish and are quite hearty. You would be amazed what they can survive. Good luck!
Hi-You are quite right-he (or she!) will need a filter %26 the biggest tank you can reasonably get, well done for your thoughtfulness! There is rather a lot to take in at first regarding caring for a Goldfish properly but rather than overload you with information on here, have a read through this link at your leisure, also perhaps join a good Goldfish forum such as the one listed below-they will be happy to advise you on anything you need to know! %26lt;o)))%26lt;
You should at least get a 2.5-5 gallon tank for one goldfish. They poop alot, so you will need a filter. You don't need a heater, because they live in cold water. Read some books and stuff on how to care for goldfish also.
How do you set fresh water fish tank?
im new with the fish thing so if u could help i need to no the best way to set up a fish tank
Answers:
First, before you ever buy your first fish, read! Buy a book on freshwater tanks, or check some out of the library, they have tons!
Beyond that, if you're new to aquaria, don't buy live plants. It is too much work to care for them, and to start, you should focus on your fish. Put a few fun decorations of your choice (made for aquarium use) in after you have arranged your gravel, add some plastic plants (fish like hiding and sleeping places), and that will be fine for as long as you're happy with it.
Next to reading, the most important thing is let your aquarium age, with filters, pumps and heaters on, at least a week before adding any fish. Then only add a few at a time. I mean like 3-6 depending on size, every two weeks. You should also have a small quarantine tank (5 gallons is about perfect) to house your new fish for their first two weeks at your home. It doesn't have to be fancy, just functional. You don't know where these fish have been, and you don't want to throw them in with all your other fish, and perhaps have the whole tank die of some disease! If, after two weeks, they seem perfectly healthy (here you need to read the section of your book about fish diseases), then you can introduce them into your community tank.
Don't overcrowd your tank. That's the most frequent mistake made by new fish keepers. All the pretty fish are irresistible! You can safely house one inch of fish per gallon of water. In a 20 gallon tank, you could have 20 neon tetras, for instance, but people usually want more variety. Find out the general maximum adult size of all your fish and add it up. When that number is the same as your gallons of water, you're done. Until a fish dies, or you trade with somebody.
Finally, make sure you test your water religiously. It is easy to do with dip strips, available everywhere. If you are really unsure about how to do it, just take some of the water to your neighborhood fish shop, they should be happy to test it for you. They are usually happy to answer questions and offer advice, too. You will have tons of selection at a giant pet superstore, and you can get some help there, but nothing beats a mom and pop pet store. They probably know more about their business, and their fish, than anybody.
If you only take one tip from me, please READ! You'll learn more than you can imagine, and things you had no idea about. Fish keeping isn't the easiest thing in the world, but if you are well informed, it's not that difficult, and can be very rewarding. Buy at least one book, you'll reference it again and again, I promise! Good luck!
put whatever plants you want - I usually let the tank cycle to stablize the tank for about a week before adding fish or you can get start right from the store-wal mart or pet store
just fill your tank and with the filters running let ur tank cycle for at least 2 weeks. Depending on the capacity of tank you can add a few fish to help with cycling. I would suggest u to start with few decorations, and try to understand fish behaviour.
random suggestion: get an algae eater... they are helpful for beginers, and ask the store employees where ur buyin fish what are "hearty" (strong-willed fish)... sensitive fish may be difficult to keep in a newly cycled tank
go to my yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/starteraqu...
I have a photo list of suggestions for fish, plants and invertabrates. when you join, clink on the links and you will find future suggestions and articles that will help you wiht your 10-gallon aquarium.
Answers:
First, before you ever buy your first fish, read! Buy a book on freshwater tanks, or check some out of the library, they have tons!
Beyond that, if you're new to aquaria, don't buy live plants. It is too much work to care for them, and to start, you should focus on your fish. Put a few fun decorations of your choice (made for aquarium use) in after you have arranged your gravel, add some plastic plants (fish like hiding and sleeping places), and that will be fine for as long as you're happy with it.
Next to reading, the most important thing is let your aquarium age, with filters, pumps and heaters on, at least a week before adding any fish. Then only add a few at a time. I mean like 3-6 depending on size, every two weeks. You should also have a small quarantine tank (5 gallons is about perfect) to house your new fish for their first two weeks at your home. It doesn't have to be fancy, just functional. You don't know where these fish have been, and you don't want to throw them in with all your other fish, and perhaps have the whole tank die of some disease! If, after two weeks, they seem perfectly healthy (here you need to read the section of your book about fish diseases), then you can introduce them into your community tank.
Don't overcrowd your tank. That's the most frequent mistake made by new fish keepers. All the pretty fish are irresistible! You can safely house one inch of fish per gallon of water. In a 20 gallon tank, you could have 20 neon tetras, for instance, but people usually want more variety. Find out the general maximum adult size of all your fish and add it up. When that number is the same as your gallons of water, you're done. Until a fish dies, or you trade with somebody.
Finally, make sure you test your water religiously. It is easy to do with dip strips, available everywhere. If you are really unsure about how to do it, just take some of the water to your neighborhood fish shop, they should be happy to test it for you. They are usually happy to answer questions and offer advice, too. You will have tons of selection at a giant pet superstore, and you can get some help there, but nothing beats a mom and pop pet store. They probably know more about their business, and their fish, than anybody.
If you only take one tip from me, please READ! You'll learn more than you can imagine, and things you had no idea about. Fish keeping isn't the easiest thing in the world, but if you are well informed, it's not that difficult, and can be very rewarding. Buy at least one book, you'll reference it again and again, I promise! Good luck!
put whatever plants you want - I usually let the tank cycle to stablize the tank for about a week before adding fish or you can get start right from the store-wal mart or pet store
just fill your tank and with the filters running let ur tank cycle for at least 2 weeks. Depending on the capacity of tank you can add a few fish to help with cycling. I would suggest u to start with few decorations, and try to understand fish behaviour.
random suggestion: get an algae eater... they are helpful for beginers, and ask the store employees where ur buyin fish what are "hearty" (strong-willed fish)... sensitive fish may be difficult to keep in a newly cycled tank
go to my yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/starteraqu...
I have a photo list of suggestions for fish, plants and invertabrates. when you join, clink on the links and you will find future suggestions and articles that will help you wiht your 10-gallon aquarium.
How do you properly breed Beta fish?
Answers:
Hello,
What I did was got a 10 gallon tank without gravel. Filled it half full. Got a small filter that barely purked. A heater was placed in the tank. Temp should stay around 80 degrees.
After the tank cycled I placed the male in there. I put a brand new oil lamp globe in the center of the tank and put the female inside of it. First time didn't work so I had to change females. If the female is ready then the male will start to blow a bubble nest. I let him blow a good size nest for almost 2 days. Then in the early morning or when you are going to be home, let the female out and watch them carefully for the first couple hours. You will see him flaring and chasing the female which is normal. You will see him wrap his body around the female and squeeze her until she releases her eggs. She will sink for a moment while he rushes down to pick up the eggs before they touch the bottom. He will put them in his mouth and blow them back in the bubble nest. It can take up to 12 hours for them to be done. But you must check on them every couple hours to make sure the male doesn't kill the female. When he chases her away from the nest and doesn't try to lure her back then they are done breeding. Take the female out as soon as this happens. Leave the male in the tank until the eggs hatch into fry that are free swimming (usually takes 2- 4 days) Then you need to remove him. Even if all the fry aren't free swimming you need to do this. The male will get frantic trying to keep up with so many fry and decide to eat some to cut back on work. After the fry are free swimming that means they no longer have a egg sac to feed off of so you will need to have some sort of food to feed them. Such as microworms, baby brine shrimp, or first bites powdered food. During the whole entire time the betta's are blowing the nest and breeding you need to leave the light on in the tank so he can see the eggs or fry falling so he can catch them. If you need more information on this go to www.bettatalk.com. Good Luck!
Get a patch for them or wait until the 1.0 version comes out.
The most important thing is starting with healthy fish. It can be difficult to find really healthy fish to start with.
This link has very good accurate advice on preparations for breeding bettas.
http://www.cbsbettas.org/doc/articles/ti...
Since you're investigating breeding, you probably already know such things as the fact that a breeding pair should be introduced before you put them together, and then when you do put them together, they should be put together in a tank with no other fish in it (and , and that two males should NEVER be put together.
Here is a page of links to many resources on Bettas.
http://dmoz.org/recreation/pets/fish_and...
The International Betta Congress members links pages
http://ibcbettas.org/members_sites.htm...
Here at the IBC we keep betta, breed betta, show betta, and most of all, we talk betta to anyone who wants to talk about them.
People who are involved in breeding and showing,etc, are usually very dedicated to their hobby and usually love to help newcomers and other people who ask for help and genuinely want to learn.
This wiki gives good basic details on breeding Bettas.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/how_to_bree...
Another link with information
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex...
I personally found it rather difficult to breed Bettas but it was a long time ago when I was trying to breed them,.and there was much less knowledge, equipment, and technology available.
Since then, overall knowledge, technology, and equipment in the aquaculture field has improved drastically. Foods are better formulated, aereation and filtration systems are better, etc.
they breed by themselves
How do you NOT kill tadpoles?
My son brought home 27 tadpoles home from school. He is care giver so he would just FREAK if one died. So what is the best way to keep them alive.
Answers:
27!! you will have 27 frogs?? You need a great filtration system and a very large tank.
they have to be in water at all times while they are in this sage of life...not sure what they eat, but googling may help.
if you don't touch it and leave it all to your son even if it died your son freak he can't blame anyone but if you need to keep them alive just feed them the needed amount of food any try not to touch them.
You will need a pretty fair-sized tank, a filtration system, and an air system. You will have to keep your son from bringing any fish, as they will eat them. Google to find out what they eat.
The tank should be filled up. While they grow, add some rocks and caves for retreat and then lower down the amount of water in there,
Answers:
27!! you will have 27 frogs?? You need a great filtration system and a very large tank.
they have to be in water at all times while they are in this sage of life...not sure what they eat, but googling may help.
if you don't touch it and leave it all to your son even if it died your son freak he can't blame anyone but if you need to keep them alive just feed them the needed amount of food any try not to touch them.
You will need a pretty fair-sized tank, a filtration system, and an air system. You will have to keep your son from bringing any fish, as they will eat them. Google to find out what they eat.
The tank should be filled up. While they grow, add some rocks and caves for retreat and then lower down the amount of water in there,
How do you move fish? I am moving from Kansas to Colorado and I have a 25 gallon tank with 6 fish.?
Answers:
moving fish is very risky but they do it all the time rite! so go to a fish store that has oxygen capsules and buy as many as you think you will need for the trip (how many days) and take about two thirds of the water out of the tank assuming it is fresh water fish.and follow directions on how many caps to use every 4-6 hours they disolve and ad oxygen to the water. make sure you get enough in case of any car problems. put a lot of blankets or soft furnishings around the tank so not to get cracked or in the back seat of a car or truck. if it gets to hot you will want to add cool water or ice from time to time. they should make it fine. other wise you can trade them in at a fish store if your not attached to them. and buy more when you get to where your going. good luck! ask the pros if you have any questions on salt water tanks. there pretty helpful. i would think to ad the same oxygen is the only thing that i ever used for 40 years now and several moves. i worry about the tank more than the fish. but thats me.
just put it in somthing secure and be very carful dump some of the water out thats wat i did when i moved from ky to tn!
Empty the tank by about half. Buy an inverter to have 115VAC available for the pumps/filters inside the car. You dont' have long drive, so everything should be fine.
Ask a pet store or an aquarium store. They may even have travelling tanks that you can buy.
For advice on this subject go to a fish store,they are good at moving fish(shipping),and may even have the materials you need,(bags,fish boxes,and oxygen if possible.)
This is how I moved my fish. I got a large bucket about 5 gallons. I filled it with water from the aquarium. I put the fish in then put the lid on tight. I placed the bucket on the floor in the back seat of my car. When you get to your new place set up your tank using the water from the bucket. Using the same water is less stressful for the fish as they are accustomed to it.
Actually get one of those white coolers from your grocery store, ya know the cheap ones that are that white foam..
Once you get one of those try to put as much water from the tank as possible, add your fish to this and put top on. You may want to take a garbage bag or something, blow it up but it at the very top and close the top. It'll help keep the water from moving around a lot.
If you can take some more water and put it another container or something. Empty out the rest of the water and you should be able to move your tank.
Once you make it to where you are moving you should get the aquarium going first. Put in the one container of water with no fishies in it, and then dump the container with fishies in it.
Start adding water every hour or so, until you are satisfied with your tank.
Oh and don't feed your fish 24 hrs before the move and 24 hrs after the move, they'll be so stressed out from the move they won't eat anyway.
http://www.bestfish.com/moving.html...
I have moved fish many times for my clients over the years, sometimes just an hour or two, sometimes overnight or more.
It is important to try and keep the temperature from varying too much, so it is best to keep the fish in a relatively controlled environment inside a car, van, or PU shell that can be kept cool in summer or warm in winter. This time of the year is usually the easiest due to lack of extreme temperatures.
I used as large as necessary for the fish volume sterile Rubber Made containers (often 30 gallon filled 1/3). I used tank water and tank decorations such as plants or other non heavy decor to give cover. Then I add Methylene Blue (according to instructions on the bottle as different MB products vary in dose). This act as a Hemoglobin transfer agent for the blood (allowing for the crowded conditions), prevents ammonia poisoning, prevents disease, and darkens the water for stress prevention.
I also add products such as a Wonder Shell ( http://americanaquariumproducts.com/medi... ) for electrolytes and calcium; again for stress in these conditions.
In trips over 4 hours I would recommend a battery air pump or a standard AC pump run off an inverter plugged into your cigarette lighter.
Upon arrival, SLOWLY add water from the new tank while extracting water form the container to prevent stress. Make sure you save as much UNCLEANED gravel and other filter media so as to restart your bio filtration.
EDIT:
This method (which has modified over the years) has been VERY effective for me and my aquarium design and maintenance business (my employees also followed this procedure). The addion of electolytes and MB is important as well as preserving the filter media, ECT.
It should be noted that scientific research has shown that nitrifying bacteria secrete a glue like substance to the surface of media, and very little of thse bacteria are preserved by moving water alone. This is a very important aspect of your move, so i have repectfully disagree with the need to save water vs. saving filter media/gravel.
As long as you uses a good conditioner such as Start Right upon arrival and adjust temperature, the new water should not be a problem.
I would recommend this article for more about the Nitrogen Cycle: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/...
I also have to respectfully disagree that a sterile plastic container is toxic to the fish. The same type of plastic is used for human food containers (in fact many Restaurants I aminained aquariums for used similar for bulk food preperation).
For advice on this subject go to a fish store,they are good at moving fish(shipping),and may even have the materials you need,(bags,fish boxes,and oxygen if possible.)
What kind of fish?
Do not pick up the tank until you have emptied it of at least 2/3 of the water-- BUT -- KEEP about 6 gallons of the tank water -- in a CLEAN glass bottle or two/three/four. You will need that water to season the tank or else the fish could die from all the new water (and it's water from a new location too so it's quite different from your old tap water too) when you set up the tank again.
I need to know what kind of fish they are before I can tell you anything.
DO be aware that if you put the fish in a plastic bucket the plastic could kill them-- why don't you call or email some local or non-local acquariums to find out more?
How do you mercy kill a fish?
Now, my mollie fish has been with me for a couple months and recently contracted some sort of fungus that's taking over her head, it looks like a giant batch of scar tissue, but its not-- it began spreading to my other mollies (and frogs and such) in my 55 G tank and i took her out into a smaller tank, treated both tanks and while my big tank is "cured" she is still sick and not responding to treatment. I took her to petsmart and Jack's aquarium and i just dont know what to do anymore. I tried the expensive treatment, the natural treatment, the generic treatment... help!
So, how do you mercy kill a fish? im not flushing her down the toiler while she's alive.
Answers:
Before you kill her, I would have to ask how sure you are that the problem is a fungus and what you've been using to treat the molly.
There is a bacterial condition (Columnaris) and a protozoan (Epistylis) that appear fungus-like but won't respond to fungal medications. The Epistylis should respond by using salt at 1 tablespoon/5 gallons (or use 1 teaspoon per gallon for a small tank/bad infection - this won't hurt the molly at all -they like to have some salt in their water and can live in marine-strength seawater). If she doesn't respond to that, the problem is probably the bacterium, which can be treated by a broad-spectrum antibiotic. See this link for more on Columnaris and Epistylis: http://www.fish-disease.net/diseases.htm...
If you feel she's really beyond help, this link will give the recommendations by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) Panel on Euthanasia for euthanizing fish:
http://www.petplace.com/fish/euthanasia-...
I prefer the use of clove oil: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-most...
Here's the website.
http://www.theoscarspot.com/index.php?op...
and here's the content of the website to which I'm referring.
A. Primary euthanasia methods for fish (methods that can be used alone) include:
1. MS-222/TMS- dosage: 50 to 250 mg/L
[buffered to pH 7.0 with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)]
Note: Fish euthanized with MS-222 cannot be used for human consumption.
2. Benzocaine-dosage: 50 to 500 mg/L
Note: Fish euthanized with Benzocaine cannot be used for human consumption.
3. Exposure to a solution saturated with carbon dioxide (CO2):
When possible, carbon dioxide should be used from a compressed gas cylinder source. However, neither the 1993 nor the 2000 Report of the AVMA Panel on Euthanasia address the issue of the source/production of carbon dioxide as it relates to aquatic animal species. The use of chemical methods for the production of carbon dioxide, such as a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer 庐, has been proven quite effective with fish as noted in the literature. When dosed adequately sodium bicarbonate renders rapid loss of consciousness and death (4,6). As a result, the use of carbon dioxide liberated by chemical means will also be acceptable for the euthanasia of fish when compressed carbon dioxide gas cylinders cannot be used. Individuals who have demonstrated competency with this technique to qualified personnel (i.e. aquatic animal veterinarian or his/her designate) should perform the euthanasia of fish by carbon dioxide.
Sodium bicarbonate dosage: (30g/L or 120g/gallon)
Alka-Seltzer 庐 dosage: (1 tablet/ 20L or 2 tablets/ 10gallons)
Note: Fish euthanized with sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer庐 should not be used for human consumption.
Protocol: Fish should be placed into a container with an appropriate volume of water that will provide free movement of fish to be euthanized. Water should then be saturated with carbon dioxide from either a compressed gas cylinder (via the use of an air stone with a moderate flow rate for ~5-10 minutes) or by dissolving enough sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer庐 into the water (via the dosages previously provided). Fish should be removed only after ten minutes have passed since their last observed opercular movements (respiration) have occurred.
(I am told that the alka-seltzer doesn't work)
Put her in freezer she will just fall asleep (peacefully)
Well I was going to say just flush it down the toilet. but since you dont want to do that, how about just taking it out of the water? Or you could release it to the wild and put it in a lake or ocean or even pond. Or buy a sushi knife and filet the fish. By the way I dont think fish feel pain, so anyways you do it, i dont think it really matters.
if you have tried EVERYTHING then I agree with you this may be the right choice. I've only had to do it once (actually I had my boyfriend do it because I couldn't bear to, she was my favorite female betta).
the only way to humanely kill a fish is with clove oil. clove oil puts them to sleep, and enough of it makes it so they never wake up again.
fill a bowl or cup with half tank water and half clove oil, put the fish in there for 10mins. I highly suggest filling a container with water, and placing it in the freezer until the top has iced over. break the ice and after the fish has been in the clove oil for 10mins put the fish in the ice water. since the fish is a warm water fish, if the clove oil left any bit of life (which is rare) the shock will kill the fish immediately. because it's immediately the fish won't feel suffer, but also because it is asleep from the clove oil.
sorry to hear about her... I'll look around quick to make sure I can't find any other suggestions to help her get better instead.
*edit*
putting fish in the freezer will not make them die peacefully... it will slowly freeze them... very painfully. clove oil must be used first.
Don't know how humane this might be but when I worked at Petco several years ago, our method was to place the fish in a bag without water and smack it into a hard object such as a wall. I know this doesn't sound kind but it's the quickest way. Flushing a fish only makes it suffer. Whereas this method knocks the fish unconscious.
You have tried the best sooo maybe the sewer drain. They have stickers on ours saying not to put anything down them cause they drain to Galveston Bay. If yours drain to a body of water that would not be too sacrificial.
bob it up and down in and out of the water
Ah - vets can do their humane euthanasia thing on fish too you know, no need to do it yourself, and it's not exactly expensive!
It's not nice to have to kill a pet yourself, vets have the means and will have done it before - just phone ahead to say what you want and they'll tell you if they do it or not.
Chalice
Okay- don't put her in the freakin' freezer! Everyone thinks that they just "go to sleep" WRONG! They feel the frost start to form on their bodies- painful.
It's easy- get a liquid sleep aid used for humans. It has to be liquid not crushed up pills because they'll filter the crushed pill through their gills. Use a tiny syringe and fill it with the sleep aid. Gently push it into the fishes mouth while holding her. Dose her. Put her back in the water. Let her swim around and repeat. You'll start to notice odd swimming patterns- lop sided. Wait 10 minutes. Give one more dose if she hasn't fallen asleep. Wait until she's not moving- her gills may still be going but she won't be moving- that is when you put her in a bag and place her in the freezer. Now she won't feel the pain of being frozen but there is no way she will wake up at all after the dosage has worn off. I had to do this with my Jack Dempsey and one of my Oscars. They were bigger so you probably won't need as much sleep aid as I did. My Dempsey started swimming in circles like he was high! It was sad.
you did what i would have done so far.thier are two more options.you can find a freshwater canal , stream or whatever is treated natural freshwater and set it free or let the petstore do it , just hope they take it.well . . . thier is a third option if you are religious . . . pray.i hope i helped.
I did the best i can now good luck.
http://www.petplace.com/fish/euthanasia-...
http://www.aq-products.com/appro/euthana...
the clove oil does not put a fish to sleep it mearly suffocates it by not allowing any oxygen from the atmosphere to enter the water. basicly the sme as co2 dosage. thew best way to anesthisis a fish is to sever the ceribral cortex with a knife. a goodf treatment of copper sulfide at 85 degrees F cures most maladies though. if you cant kill it the take it ti a LFS and ask them to drop it into a tank with large Ocsar or other predatory fish it'll be gone in less tha a second, painlessly.
Drop her in a glass of club soda, it is the most humane way. It is instant.
a little bit of bleach would probably do it..
why go and buy clove oil or pay to take it to the vet?
good ol fashion poison will do the trick nicely.
Oh dear with these answers I am glad I am not a fish.
copper head is right. Have you tried treating for fungus?
Also, the most humane way to euthanize a fish is 1/2 cup vodka and 1/2 cup of water. From the first breath your fish will feel no pain, (Actually totally drunk) and will pass peacefully in a matter of moments.
DO not freeze or use clove oil or bang it around. Also, yes salt does kill fish but that is a nasty way to do it.
This was released by the University of Pittsburgh Medical department Animals
So, how do you mercy kill a fish? im not flushing her down the toiler while she's alive.
Answers:
Before you kill her, I would have to ask how sure you are that the problem is a fungus and what you've been using to treat the molly.
There is a bacterial condition (Columnaris) and a protozoan (Epistylis) that appear fungus-like but won't respond to fungal medications. The Epistylis should respond by using salt at 1 tablespoon/5 gallons (or use 1 teaspoon per gallon for a small tank/bad infection - this won't hurt the molly at all -they like to have some salt in their water and can live in marine-strength seawater). If she doesn't respond to that, the problem is probably the bacterium, which can be treated by a broad-spectrum antibiotic. See this link for more on Columnaris and Epistylis: http://www.fish-disease.net/diseases.htm...
If you feel she's really beyond help, this link will give the recommendations by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) Panel on Euthanasia for euthanizing fish:
http://www.petplace.com/fish/euthanasia-...
I prefer the use of clove oil: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-most...
Here's the website.
http://www.theoscarspot.com/index.php?op...
and here's the content of the website to which I'm referring.
A. Primary euthanasia methods for fish (methods that can be used alone) include:
1. MS-222/TMS- dosage: 50 to 250 mg/L
[buffered to pH 7.0 with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)]
Note: Fish euthanized with MS-222 cannot be used for human consumption.
2. Benzocaine-dosage: 50 to 500 mg/L
Note: Fish euthanized with Benzocaine cannot be used for human consumption.
3. Exposure to a solution saturated with carbon dioxide (CO2):
When possible, carbon dioxide should be used from a compressed gas cylinder source. However, neither the 1993 nor the 2000 Report of the AVMA Panel on Euthanasia address the issue of the source/production of carbon dioxide as it relates to aquatic animal species. The use of chemical methods for the production of carbon dioxide, such as a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer 庐, has been proven quite effective with fish as noted in the literature. When dosed adequately sodium bicarbonate renders rapid loss of consciousness and death (4,6). As a result, the use of carbon dioxide liberated by chemical means will also be acceptable for the euthanasia of fish when compressed carbon dioxide gas cylinders cannot be used. Individuals who have demonstrated competency with this technique to qualified personnel (i.e. aquatic animal veterinarian or his/her designate) should perform the euthanasia of fish by carbon dioxide.
Sodium bicarbonate dosage: (30g/L or 120g/gallon)
Alka-Seltzer 庐 dosage: (1 tablet/ 20L or 2 tablets/ 10gallons)
Note: Fish euthanized with sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer庐 should not be used for human consumption.
Protocol: Fish should be placed into a container with an appropriate volume of water that will provide free movement of fish to be euthanized. Water should then be saturated with carbon dioxide from either a compressed gas cylinder (via the use of an air stone with a moderate flow rate for ~5-10 minutes) or by dissolving enough sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer庐 into the water (via the dosages previously provided). Fish should be removed only after ten minutes have passed since their last observed opercular movements (respiration) have occurred.
(I am told that the alka-seltzer doesn't work)
Put her in freezer she will just fall asleep (peacefully)
Well I was going to say just flush it down the toilet. but since you dont want to do that, how about just taking it out of the water? Or you could release it to the wild and put it in a lake or ocean or even pond. Or buy a sushi knife and filet the fish. By the way I dont think fish feel pain, so anyways you do it, i dont think it really matters.
if you have tried EVERYTHING then I agree with you this may be the right choice. I've only had to do it once (actually I had my boyfriend do it because I couldn't bear to, she was my favorite female betta).
the only way to humanely kill a fish is with clove oil. clove oil puts them to sleep, and enough of it makes it so they never wake up again.
fill a bowl or cup with half tank water and half clove oil, put the fish in there for 10mins. I highly suggest filling a container with water, and placing it in the freezer until the top has iced over. break the ice and after the fish has been in the clove oil for 10mins put the fish in the ice water. since the fish is a warm water fish, if the clove oil left any bit of life (which is rare) the shock will kill the fish immediately. because it's immediately the fish won't feel suffer, but also because it is asleep from the clove oil.
sorry to hear about her... I'll look around quick to make sure I can't find any other suggestions to help her get better instead.
*edit*
putting fish in the freezer will not make them die peacefully... it will slowly freeze them... very painfully. clove oil must be used first.
Don't know how humane this might be but when I worked at Petco several years ago, our method was to place the fish in a bag without water and smack it into a hard object such as a wall. I know this doesn't sound kind but it's the quickest way. Flushing a fish only makes it suffer. Whereas this method knocks the fish unconscious.
You have tried the best sooo maybe the sewer drain. They have stickers on ours saying not to put anything down them cause they drain to Galveston Bay. If yours drain to a body of water that would not be too sacrificial.
bob it up and down in and out of the water
Ah - vets can do their humane euthanasia thing on fish too you know, no need to do it yourself, and it's not exactly expensive!
It's not nice to have to kill a pet yourself, vets have the means and will have done it before - just phone ahead to say what you want and they'll tell you if they do it or not.
Chalice
Okay- don't put her in the freakin' freezer! Everyone thinks that they just "go to sleep" WRONG! They feel the frost start to form on their bodies- painful.
It's easy- get a liquid sleep aid used for humans. It has to be liquid not crushed up pills because they'll filter the crushed pill through their gills. Use a tiny syringe and fill it with the sleep aid. Gently push it into the fishes mouth while holding her. Dose her. Put her back in the water. Let her swim around and repeat. You'll start to notice odd swimming patterns- lop sided. Wait 10 minutes. Give one more dose if she hasn't fallen asleep. Wait until she's not moving- her gills may still be going but she won't be moving- that is when you put her in a bag and place her in the freezer. Now she won't feel the pain of being frozen but there is no way she will wake up at all after the dosage has worn off. I had to do this with my Jack Dempsey and one of my Oscars. They were bigger so you probably won't need as much sleep aid as I did. My Dempsey started swimming in circles like he was high! It was sad.
you did what i would have done so far.thier are two more options.you can find a freshwater canal , stream or whatever is treated natural freshwater and set it free or let the petstore do it , just hope they take it.well . . . thier is a third option if you are religious . . . pray.i hope i helped.
I did the best i can now good luck.
http://www.petplace.com/fish/euthanasia-...
http://www.aq-products.com/appro/euthana...
the clove oil does not put a fish to sleep it mearly suffocates it by not allowing any oxygen from the atmosphere to enter the water. basicly the sme as co2 dosage. thew best way to anesthisis a fish is to sever the ceribral cortex with a knife. a goodf treatment of copper sulfide at 85 degrees F cures most maladies though. if you cant kill it the take it ti a LFS and ask them to drop it into a tank with large Ocsar or other predatory fish it'll be gone in less tha a second, painlessly.
Drop her in a glass of club soda, it is the most humane way. It is instant.
a little bit of bleach would probably do it..
why go and buy clove oil or pay to take it to the vet?
good ol fashion poison will do the trick nicely.
Oh dear with these answers I am glad I am not a fish.
copper head is right. Have you tried treating for fungus?
Also, the most humane way to euthanize a fish is 1/2 cup vodka and 1/2 cup of water. From the first breath your fish will feel no pain, (Actually totally drunk) and will pass peacefully in a matter of moments.
DO not freeze or use clove oil or bang it around. Also, yes salt does kill fish but that is a nasty way to do it.
This was released by the University of Pittsburgh Medical department Animals
How do you measure ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in a salt water aquarium?
Answers:
There are several different ways to tests these things. Don't get the test strips. I found that out the hard way and lost a couple fish because I was getting inaccurate readings.
In addition to the above responses, you can always take a water sample to your LFS. Make sure they're not busy because the tests take time and sometimes they will only do one test per visit.
Once you have a well-established aquarium (6 months) testing becomes less necessary. If there are no problems in your tank, and you are doing regular maintenance (cleaning, water changes) you may only need to test your water every other month. My aquarium is about 2 years old and I haven't tested the water since January because I know it's good. None of the inhabitants show signs of stress which is the main thing to watch for.
You can get a test kit. There are different kinds of tests, digital, liquid, and strips. The strips are the least accurette, and the digital is the most. I usually recommend liquid because it works well and you dont have to dish out a million bucks
A test kit for saltwater tanks. Preferably ones with the bottles and test tubes.
There really isn't any difference between these for fresh or salt water. The color chart is different for the two types is the only difference.
Like Chris C said, Don't use test strips$$$
There are lots of good cheeper liquid test kits at your LFS that will do 50 to 100 tests.
I am the same, I know my water is good, No signs of stress or corals that don't open or look healthy and I do water tests every 2 months, 1 day after I do a water change.
If you are not using live rock and live sand and a skimmer you may want to test a little more frequantly and do more frequant water changes.
You should have a master test kit for salt water. Also, there is nothing wrong with the test strips for salt water, however do not rely on them to be 100% accurate.
you can buy individual tests for salt water in their own box. most fish stores will carry them.
How do you make goldfish have babies?
Answers:
they have to be old enough of the right sexes and you have to condition them meaning lots of live food and arefully balanced water conditions. It isnt worth the time for most people
You can't make them...
They either will or won't.
They reproduce just like other fish...
脽眉bbl毛拧
What do you keep your goldfish in?
They don't breed until they are at least a few inches long, and are far more likely to spawn in a pond, than they are to do so, in a tank.
Otherwise, try Google, and see what you can come up with.
How do you Lower Water Hardness In a fish tank?
I just bought a test kit, even so I owned fish for a year ( even though I just found out about the nitrogen cycle..). Anyways, I found that I have no ammonia problems, but that I have a high pH, and High water hardness (380-420). And my fish are taking an abnormally large amount of craps. I'm not sure what my fish species are, but I also found that there are now baby minnows in the tank, so some of the fish must of mated =). Any advice on how to lower the water hardness and possibly any side comments on what to do with the baby minnows? Oh, and none of the fish are big enough to eat them (hopefully). I keep fresh water fish.
Answers:
Unless you have species that absolutely require soft water (like discus) or low pH, I wouldn't worry about changing either - and it's probably the hardness that's causing a higher pH. Most fish are at home in pH levels from 6-8, and I've kept tropicals at a pH of 8.2 with no problems.
About the only ways to do this would so the pH doesn't fluctuate would be to use a water softener at your home, or use reverse osmosis water (you can buy a filter for your home or get it at larger supermarkets bottled or from self-serve dispensers). You could mix purchased water with your own in whatever ratio necessary. Chemical buffers cause the pH to swing, and the fish prever a stable environment.
Your fish also seem to be suffering from constipation. This could be from being fed too much (only give them what they and eat in 2-3 minutes twice a day!), too much dry food (soak flakes or pellets a few minutes before feeding), or incorrect foods (if you fish are herbivores or omnivores, they'll benefit from getting some vegetable matter in their diet). Try not feeding them for two days, then give them some cooked peas with the skins off. This will help with extra fiber to "push" anything else throught their system. After that, feed a little less than usual, and try adding a bit more variety to what you feed - fish will also eat squash, romaine lettuce, algae flakes, and other veggies if their frozen so they soften. The babies will probably eat what the adults do - you may just need to crush up the pellets/flakes so they're a smaller size.
Find out what pH level your fish prefer...you can search on google, and then you can buy a chemical to either lower the pH...don;t lower by more than .2 every 24 hours or you can kill them, or they sell perfect pH. Buy the one that matches the pH they prefer and add it every time you change the water. Easy as can be!
Answers:
Unless you have species that absolutely require soft water (like discus) or low pH, I wouldn't worry about changing either - and it's probably the hardness that's causing a higher pH. Most fish are at home in pH levels from 6-8, and I've kept tropicals at a pH of 8.2 with no problems.
About the only ways to do this would so the pH doesn't fluctuate would be to use a water softener at your home, or use reverse osmosis water (you can buy a filter for your home or get it at larger supermarkets bottled or from self-serve dispensers). You could mix purchased water with your own in whatever ratio necessary. Chemical buffers cause the pH to swing, and the fish prever a stable environment.
Your fish also seem to be suffering from constipation. This could be from being fed too much (only give them what they and eat in 2-3 minutes twice a day!), too much dry food (soak flakes or pellets a few minutes before feeding), or incorrect foods (if you fish are herbivores or omnivores, they'll benefit from getting some vegetable matter in their diet). Try not feeding them for two days, then give them some cooked peas with the skins off. This will help with extra fiber to "push" anything else throught their system. After that, feed a little less than usual, and try adding a bit more variety to what you feed - fish will also eat squash, romaine lettuce, algae flakes, and other veggies if their frozen so they soften. The babies will probably eat what the adults do - you may just need to crush up the pellets/flakes so they're a smaller size.
Find out what pH level your fish prefer...you can search on google, and then you can buy a chemical to either lower the pH...don;t lower by more than .2 every 24 hours or you can kill them, or they sell perfect pH. Buy the one that matches the pH they prefer and add it every time you change the water. Easy as can be!
How do you know when an endler (live bearing fish) is pregnant and not just fat?
Answers:
Just like Fancy Guppies they develop a gravid spot or dark area at the end of their stomach. This female is slightly pregnant
http://www.geocities.com/endlers_livebea...
Hope that helps
MM
i dont know about the endler exactly but in my time of having fish the diff between fat and preg are simple, a fish can get bigger and bigger but always stay in proportion. if pregnant their belly gets massive compared to rest of body, u can just see they pregnant. if they just got suddenly really big...it simply grew. much luv xxxx
It is very hard to tell in the beginning, but when she is further along, it is easier. There are ultrasounds for our fishy friends so there is no real fool-proof way. Look at some pictures of pregnant fish and normally you can tell the difference. Just like pregnant women look different from fat ones. A fish usually doesn't get too large. So if she's humongous, shes probably pregnant.
Has she been in contact with a male? You can easily sex live bearing fish. If you are unsure how, feel free to email me or do a quick google search but you seem to know some about live bearers.
The best method I have found is to look on their lower section for a black or brown spot. It is called a gravid spot and if you look close enough you should see tiny eyes. The group together forming the spot. If it is a guppy however, i have found this method doesn't work as well. Many of my guppies have those spots but are not pregnant. The color of the gravid spot can sometimes be used to know how close the fish is to giving birth. A good rule of thumb is the darker, the sooner.
Also keep in mind that if she is pregnant, fish can house sperm and can continue to have batches of baby's. A guppy of mine had 6 more batches after being separated!
Good luck and hope the best for your (maybe) fry! Please tell me everything turns out.
You can always tell when a live bearing fish is preganant. Just look at the stomach and if it is going dark then the fish is full of fry which she will give birth to about 28 days after she have done her deeds with a male fish
How do you know when a coy fish is pregnant or not?
if it is should we take it out away from the other fishes in the tank
Answers:
Koi are of the egg-laying genre of fish, you might say. If there is a ready male and female together, the eggs will be lain in a pre-prepared (lol) place that the female has chosen. If you plan on breeding the koi, just place multiple ammounts of both sexes in the same tank and they will pair up; this is common of most/all egg-layers. From there, you may or may not choose to remove the breeding couple, but its not mandatory.
You mean koi? Fish don't get pregnant, they lay eggs.
Answers:
Koi are of the egg-laying genre of fish, you might say. If there is a ready male and female together, the eggs will be lain in a pre-prepared (lol) place that the female has chosen. If you plan on breeding the koi, just place multiple ammounts of both sexes in the same tank and they will pair up; this is common of most/all egg-layers. From there, you may or may not choose to remove the breeding couple, but its not mandatory.
You mean koi? Fish don't get pregnant, they lay eggs.
How do you know if your fish are pregnant?
if it helps they are yellow tangs
Answers:
Though the Yellow Tang has not yet been bred in captivity, this species has been observed in group spawning as well as pair spawning in the ocean. In pair spawning each males will defend a territory and attempt to attract females passing by.
Usually, their tummies become bigger than usual.
Their stomach gets big.
They would lessen their swimming and seem to rest more than usual and look alittle bloated.
If they are yellow tangs, they're not pregnant. Never happened in captivity.
It is my understanding that they have not been breed in captivity yet. they are thought to be egg-layers as well.
Answers:
Though the Yellow Tang has not yet been bred in captivity, this species has been observed in group spawning as well as pair spawning in the ocean. In pair spawning each males will defend a territory and attempt to attract females passing by.
Usually, their tummies become bigger than usual.
Their stomach gets big.
They would lessen their swimming and seem to rest more than usual and look alittle bloated.
If they are yellow tangs, they're not pregnant. Never happened in captivity.
It is my understanding that they have not been breed in captivity yet. they are thought to be egg-layers as well.
How do you keep tropical fish?
wot temp do you keep the water,iv got a heater and iv set it at 21c,is that rght.does eny one no a good book on keeping tropical fish.
Answers:
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/bag.pdf...
http://www2.tetra.de/tet_internet_import...
Here two good free books.
in a fish tank... hahahahhahahahhaahhahahhahahah...
They keep for months in the freezer.
i didn't read a book. a dvd came with my aquariam. all the advice i can give u is to remember to clean the tank. the fish really die!
you : how do you keep tropical fish ?
me : you don't , easy if you do not know don't do it !
Okay first its better if you buy a larger tank 10 gallon to 20 will be enough to keep the tank at room temp. and a heater would not be required, as long as you keep you house normal.
2 tropical fish will die, think of it this way: at least 1 out of every
3 fish you buy will die. this is natural.
Dont over clean your fish tank.
Dont stick foreign objects in the tank (no sponges from the kitchen sink)
Dont use chemicals to clean the tank
Dont over feed fish
etc.. hope that helps, feel free to email for more advice.
In an aquarium with clean slightly warm water and a little food. READ a book,and start slow and learn from experience.
try this site, lots of info and it's free to become a member:
http://www.thinkfish.co.uk/
The temp should be 26c with a ph of 7, lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours if your live plants or less with plastic ones, get the right size filter as well, try this site practical fishkeeping magazine
21c is a bit cold,keep temp between 24c-26c and speek to the people who sell you your fish,good luck
All books that guide you in the hobby is useful, and in your own words..''good''
But fish-rearing isn't that basic, there is no definite temperature for all fish types, they differ according to their natural habitat.
You should study the species you wish to rear before initiating further adjustments to your tank.
21 Is too cold for tropical freshwater fish. The only things that live at that temperature are Goldfish and other coldwater species like paradise fish. If you put a tropical fish in water that cold, they'll be prone to illness.
24.4 to 25.5 is the ideal temperature for most tropical fish.
Go to www.fishforums.net - they have lots of threads about beginner set ups and if you have a question not covered you can pose it in the forum - some people are a bit odd... but overall you can get great advice from people who have successfully kept fish for many years and really know their stuff.
firstly i would add about a 3 to 4 inch deep layer of gravel at the base of the tank you can buy it from any good pet shop i would also add some features in the tank such as a bridge or ship a diving helmet maybe or a no fishing sign etc make their home interesting for them to live in add some plants real ones are better as they oxygenate the water and provide natural food for the fish but plastic ones are ok
fill the tank with tepid water from tap within about 1inch from top of tank the heater set at 21 c or 71 f is just about perfect i try to ensure mine never rises above 24 c 75 f it does vary though depending on time of year in the summer i turn my heater down a bit and in the winter turn it up a bit accordingly it can also depend where you place the tank keep an eye on temperature especially if the tank is near a radiator for instance this will allow temperature to fluctuate greatly and it is better to keep it away from an appliance like that if possible.
fit the lighting tubes into hood of the tank lid they need to be left on for about 10 to 12 hours a day this simulates artificial daylight for the fish but try not to leave on any longer than this as the light along with the heat will allow algae to grow after 10 to 12 hours turn off the lights to simulate night time it is fascinating watching fish sleep i have my lights on a timer switch makes life so much easier
set up the filtration unit make sure that you do not turn it on until it is submerged under water especially if it is a fluval type this needs to be kept running constantly as this prevents toxins building up in the water and killing your fish eg rotting food or fish waste
it is a personal choice and by no means vital but i would strongly recommend the additon of airstones they are relatively cheap 拢2 or 拢3 pounds and provide valuable extra oxygen in the water which makes the water much more fish friendly as the more oxygen in the water the more active they can be
now you are just about ready to go i would strongly recommend especially if it is a brand new tank to let the filters and airstones run for about a week before introducing any fish i would also strongly advise you add water additives to purify it and get things like ammonia and nitrates out of the water as they are very harmful to fish last thing you want is to stock it with 拢30 quids worth of fish and lose them because water is not correct look for fluids like ammo lock and safe water they are available from any good pet shop i would also do a ph test to check your water i try to keep mine below 5
now we get to the bit you have been waitng for the fish drumroll for a new tank and especially if you are new to keeping tropical fish i would only add the following breeds of fish these are all really placid and good community fish and really easy to keep and maintain and dont really need any special kind of food some fish require bloodworm and other supplements i would keep it simple with these types initailly yuo can always add to it as you go along the fish i would recommend are:
neon tetras - best in small shoals of 6 or more
black widow tetras - again around 6 is a good number
mollys/guppys - i would introduce both males and females and your fish count will increase naturally quite quickly i would add around 10 to 12 of these to start there are some beautifully coloured fish available
plectomus / cat fish / loach - i would add a minmum of one of these if not two as they live off the algae and help to keep tank clean
snails and frogs - these also help to keep tank nice and clean
ok so thats the fish taken care of and settled now lets look at the type of food you should feed them and how much of it and how often
the tetra's guppy's and molly's will be quite happy with flake i personally prefer aquarian it offers good value for money and nutrititon for the fish its around 拢4 or 5 for a big tub
the catfish and loaches will be happy with algae wafers again around 拢 3 or 4 pound a tub mark
the frogs and snails will live off the algae wafers too
i would feed only 2 or 3 algae wafers and as regards flake you dont want to feed a lot just a couple of small pinches will be enough try to leave the flakes as big as you can it makes the food easier to find for the fish i only feed every other day its best to keep them on the hungry side keeps them more active and healthy overfeeding can cause toxins in the water as food not eaten will begin to rot which in turn can kill the fish
hope this helps you get started as for books there are loads in any good pet shops im sure you will find one that is most suitable for you good luck
Answers:
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/bag.pdf...
http://www2.tetra.de/tet_internet_import...
Here two good free books.
in a fish tank... hahahahhahahahhaahhahahhahahah...
They keep for months in the freezer.
i didn't read a book. a dvd came with my aquariam. all the advice i can give u is to remember to clean the tank. the fish really die!
you : how do you keep tropical fish ?
me : you don't , easy if you do not know don't do it !
Okay first its better if you buy a larger tank 10 gallon to 20 will be enough to keep the tank at room temp. and a heater would not be required, as long as you keep you house normal.
2 tropical fish will die, think of it this way: at least 1 out of every
3 fish you buy will die. this is natural.
Dont over clean your fish tank.
Dont stick foreign objects in the tank (no sponges from the kitchen sink)
Dont use chemicals to clean the tank
Dont over feed fish
etc.. hope that helps, feel free to email for more advice.
In an aquarium with clean slightly warm water and a little food. READ a book,and start slow and learn from experience.
try this site, lots of info and it's free to become a member:
http://www.thinkfish.co.uk/
The temp should be 26c with a ph of 7, lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours if your live plants or less with plastic ones, get the right size filter as well, try this site practical fishkeeping magazine
21c is a bit cold,keep temp between 24c-26c and speek to the people who sell you your fish,good luck
All books that guide you in the hobby is useful, and in your own words..''good''
But fish-rearing isn't that basic, there is no definite temperature for all fish types, they differ according to their natural habitat.
You should study the species you wish to rear before initiating further adjustments to your tank.
21 Is too cold for tropical freshwater fish. The only things that live at that temperature are Goldfish and other coldwater species like paradise fish. If you put a tropical fish in water that cold, they'll be prone to illness.
24.4 to 25.5 is the ideal temperature for most tropical fish.
Go to www.fishforums.net - they have lots of threads about beginner set ups and if you have a question not covered you can pose it in the forum - some people are a bit odd... but overall you can get great advice from people who have successfully kept fish for many years and really know their stuff.
firstly i would add about a 3 to 4 inch deep layer of gravel at the base of the tank you can buy it from any good pet shop i would also add some features in the tank such as a bridge or ship a diving helmet maybe or a no fishing sign etc make their home interesting for them to live in add some plants real ones are better as they oxygenate the water and provide natural food for the fish but plastic ones are ok
fill the tank with tepid water from tap within about 1inch from top of tank the heater set at 21 c or 71 f is just about perfect i try to ensure mine never rises above 24 c 75 f it does vary though depending on time of year in the summer i turn my heater down a bit and in the winter turn it up a bit accordingly it can also depend where you place the tank keep an eye on temperature especially if the tank is near a radiator for instance this will allow temperature to fluctuate greatly and it is better to keep it away from an appliance like that if possible.
fit the lighting tubes into hood of the tank lid they need to be left on for about 10 to 12 hours a day this simulates artificial daylight for the fish but try not to leave on any longer than this as the light along with the heat will allow algae to grow after 10 to 12 hours turn off the lights to simulate night time it is fascinating watching fish sleep i have my lights on a timer switch makes life so much easier
set up the filtration unit make sure that you do not turn it on until it is submerged under water especially if it is a fluval type this needs to be kept running constantly as this prevents toxins building up in the water and killing your fish eg rotting food or fish waste
it is a personal choice and by no means vital but i would strongly recommend the additon of airstones they are relatively cheap 拢2 or 拢3 pounds and provide valuable extra oxygen in the water which makes the water much more fish friendly as the more oxygen in the water the more active they can be
now you are just about ready to go i would strongly recommend especially if it is a brand new tank to let the filters and airstones run for about a week before introducing any fish i would also strongly advise you add water additives to purify it and get things like ammonia and nitrates out of the water as they are very harmful to fish last thing you want is to stock it with 拢30 quids worth of fish and lose them because water is not correct look for fluids like ammo lock and safe water they are available from any good pet shop i would also do a ph test to check your water i try to keep mine below 5
now we get to the bit you have been waitng for the fish drumroll for a new tank and especially if you are new to keeping tropical fish i would only add the following breeds of fish these are all really placid and good community fish and really easy to keep and maintain and dont really need any special kind of food some fish require bloodworm and other supplements i would keep it simple with these types initailly yuo can always add to it as you go along the fish i would recommend are:
neon tetras - best in small shoals of 6 or more
black widow tetras - again around 6 is a good number
mollys/guppys - i would introduce both males and females and your fish count will increase naturally quite quickly i would add around 10 to 12 of these to start there are some beautifully coloured fish available
plectomus / cat fish / loach - i would add a minmum of one of these if not two as they live off the algae and help to keep tank clean
snails and frogs - these also help to keep tank nice and clean
ok so thats the fish taken care of and settled now lets look at the type of food you should feed them and how much of it and how often
the tetra's guppy's and molly's will be quite happy with flake i personally prefer aquarian it offers good value for money and nutrititon for the fish its around 拢4 or 5 for a big tub
the catfish and loaches will be happy with algae wafers again around 拢 3 or 4 pound a tub mark
the frogs and snails will live off the algae wafers too
i would feed only 2 or 3 algae wafers and as regards flake you dont want to feed a lot just a couple of small pinches will be enough try to leave the flakes as big as you can it makes the food easier to find for the fish i only feed every other day its best to keep them on the hungry side keeps them more active and healthy overfeeding can cause toxins in the water as food not eaten will begin to rot which in turn can kill the fish
hope this helps you get started as for books there are loads in any good pet shops im sure you will find one that is most suitable for you good luck
How do you keep painted tetra fish alive and healthy?
I just found out, after buying the painted tetra fish, that the colors aren't natural and are injected. I also found out to paint them like that they get rid of the fishes' most defensive body layer, so they are more prone to dying and disease. I put in some cure stuff that is supposed to make fish who are already sick heal, even though the tetra aren't sick. I took out my filter and it was really dirty, so now I don't know how much more dangerous it is in there for those already really weak fish. Um, two dannio-type things-fish are acting really weird and wouldn't eat, and the two tetra (who are actually perch) didn't go to the food I put into the aquarium either. Any help on the tetra or the weird-acting small-black striped fish would be nice, thanks alot.
Answers:
You are correct about the injections. 80% of dyed fish die during the procedure. The other 20% make it to the fish stores for sale. Dyes that are injected are done with a needle and will eventually fade. The other form of dye, that you're talking about, is the dipping. In this case, the slime coating is stripped away, then the fish is dipped, then an enzyme is coated on the fish to help it build back its slime layer.
Without fail, either of these methods will cause your fish to have weaker immune systems. However, if you put medications into your tank WITHOUT have a sick fish to treat, you may be doing more harm than good.
The filter media has the good bacteria (nitrate) living in there as well as on any surfaces in the tank. When you run the medication through, it kills off this bacteria and you have an uncycled tank again. Ammonia levels will spike, stressing the fish, causing illness, etc...exactly what you're trying to prevent! If the danios aren't eating...test the water. Don't use medication for the fish unless they're sick. Most dechlorinators have stress-zyme in them to help with slime coating when you do your water changes.
i would take them back to pet store who sold them, then tell them why your returning them. some store owners dont know what it takes to "paint" a fish, and unknowinly sell them. the fish will lose their color , and revert back to a sickly glass fish from the toxic dyes used to paint them. i would also get a test kit , i am willing to bet the nitrates are high, and you need to do 10% water changes for the next few days to bring that down, and to keep good water conditions. try not to over feed them, even skip a day fo feeding to see if they are indeed eating, when your not looking . i personally found a local pet store that was selling painted fish , after i told him aboiut them , he stopped selling them ,and even kept the ones that he didnt sell for his own fish, and is taking care of them..
If your fish made it this far after being injected, they already have their slime coat back intact. I would simply provide them with clean water and watch them for disease like you would any other new fish. A good water change and replacing the filter pads would be a good idea, just to be sure the water stays nice and clean. Once the dye fades and your fish recover their health you will find them to be very pretty and interesting fish. Why people would dye them is beyond me.
MM
I would not buy dyed or genetically colored fish. The processes weakens the fish's defense systems .If they are thriving,just be extra scrupulous about keeping the water quality high,feed carefully,and maintain the filters. Do not overcrowd. In a few weeks the dyes will fade and the genetically altered will look similar to the original type,if they even live long enough.These fish are colored before they are exported because there are so many of them and are so cheap,that the wholesalers need to make "diverse" fish for marketing schemes.
Answers:
You are correct about the injections. 80% of dyed fish die during the procedure. The other 20% make it to the fish stores for sale. Dyes that are injected are done with a needle and will eventually fade. The other form of dye, that you're talking about, is the dipping. In this case, the slime coating is stripped away, then the fish is dipped, then an enzyme is coated on the fish to help it build back its slime layer.
Without fail, either of these methods will cause your fish to have weaker immune systems. However, if you put medications into your tank WITHOUT have a sick fish to treat, you may be doing more harm than good.
The filter media has the good bacteria (nitrate) living in there as well as on any surfaces in the tank. When you run the medication through, it kills off this bacteria and you have an uncycled tank again. Ammonia levels will spike, stressing the fish, causing illness, etc...exactly what you're trying to prevent! If the danios aren't eating...test the water. Don't use medication for the fish unless they're sick. Most dechlorinators have stress-zyme in them to help with slime coating when you do your water changes.
i would take them back to pet store who sold them, then tell them why your returning them. some store owners dont know what it takes to "paint" a fish, and unknowinly sell them. the fish will lose their color , and revert back to a sickly glass fish from the toxic dyes used to paint them. i would also get a test kit , i am willing to bet the nitrates are high, and you need to do 10% water changes for the next few days to bring that down, and to keep good water conditions. try not to over feed them, even skip a day fo feeding to see if they are indeed eating, when your not looking . i personally found a local pet store that was selling painted fish , after i told him aboiut them , he stopped selling them ,and even kept the ones that he didnt sell for his own fish, and is taking care of them..
If your fish made it this far after being injected, they already have their slime coat back intact. I would simply provide them with clean water and watch them for disease like you would any other new fish. A good water change and replacing the filter pads would be a good idea, just to be sure the water stays nice and clean. Once the dye fades and your fish recover their health you will find them to be very pretty and interesting fish. Why people would dye them is beyond me.
MM
I would not buy dyed or genetically colored fish. The processes weakens the fish's defense systems .If they are thriving,just be extra scrupulous about keeping the water quality high,feed carefully,and maintain the filters. Do not overcrowd. In a few weeks the dyes will fade and the genetically altered will look similar to the original type,if they even live long enough.These fish are colored before they are exported because there are so many of them and are so cheap,that the wholesalers need to make "diverse" fish for marketing schemes.
How do you keep an axolotl occupied and happy?
I have an axolotl and I love him very much. He has things to hide in in his tank, but I'm worried he's bored. How can you keep one entertained and happy? Thanks for any advice.
Answers:
Provide loops and hiding places in the tank, lava rocks are especially great!
About all that entertained mine was food and a second axolotl. I wouldn't recommend overfeeding, and the first two I had together laid eggs.
I don't know that they are actually capable of being bored, but if they are I think maybe the best way to prevent boredom is to change the decorations around it their tank once in a while. You can add new items, take some out, and move others around. You could also see about getting him a large snail for a friend. Or, if you get another axolotl, try to get one that's the same gender if you don't want babies (they're hard to raise and need a ot of space - otherwise they're cannabalistic). If you want to try it, or just want to see more info about them, try this link: http://www.axolotl.org/
Answers:
Provide loops and hiding places in the tank, lava rocks are especially great!
About all that entertained mine was food and a second axolotl. I wouldn't recommend overfeeding, and the first two I had together laid eggs.
I don't know that they are actually capable of being bored, but if they are I think maybe the best way to prevent boredom is to change the decorations around it their tank once in a while. You can add new items, take some out, and move others around. You could also see about getting him a large snail for a friend. Or, if you get another axolotl, try to get one that's the same gender if you don't want babies (they're hard to raise and need a ot of space - otherwise they're cannabalistic). If you want to try it, or just want to see more info about them, try this link: http://www.axolotl.org/
How do you keep algae out of your out door pond or at least keep it down some?
The sun is hits the pond and there are some trees (pine)
Answers:
One of the best methods to control algae is the use of floating plants in the pond. They both shade the water and use nutrients from the water. Things like water lettuce or water lilies that ffer shade are both good.
MM
You need to by the fish that eats algae...
cat fish.
what i would do is clean it out put more water in there is this thing at the pet store is called be gone it works on ever nature water system
By an algae killer product, and a pocostimus fish, they eat algae.
I'm havin' the same problem myself, and this is working pretty well.
To add to the other ideas you've gotten, is the algae attached to the sides, or is this free-floating algae in the water? If it's free-floating, a UV sterilizer unit will help, but these are expensive and the bulbs need to be replaced at least once a year.
If your algae is attached, a UV unit won't do as much good, so you may need to try and remove as much as you can by hand.
If any needles from the pines (or any other trees or plants) get in your water, remove them as soon as you notice them - these will eventually decompose and add to the nutrients that "fertilize" the algae. You can also do 25% water changes to reduce any nutrients from already decaying leaves, fish food %26 poop (if you've got fish in the pond), and pond plant fertilizers (if you use them).
Once you've removed any attached algae, add a bale or so of barley straw. It doesn't affect algae already present, but it prevents new algae. See info on this: http://montgomery.extension.psu.edu/nres...
Answers:
One of the best methods to control algae is the use of floating plants in the pond. They both shade the water and use nutrients from the water. Things like water lettuce or water lilies that ffer shade are both good.
MM
You need to by the fish that eats algae...
cat fish.
what i would do is clean it out put more water in there is this thing at the pet store is called be gone it works on ever nature water system
By an algae killer product, and a pocostimus fish, they eat algae.
I'm havin' the same problem myself, and this is working pretty well.
To add to the other ideas you've gotten, is the algae attached to the sides, or is this free-floating algae in the water? If it's free-floating, a UV sterilizer unit will help, but these are expensive and the bulbs need to be replaced at least once a year.
If your algae is attached, a UV unit won't do as much good, so you may need to try and remove as much as you can by hand.
If any needles from the pines (or any other trees or plants) get in your water, remove them as soon as you notice them - these will eventually decompose and add to the nutrients that "fertilize" the algae. You can also do 25% water changes to reduce any nutrients from already decaying leaves, fish food %26 poop (if you've got fish in the pond), and pond plant fertilizers (if you use them).
Once you've removed any attached algae, add a bale or so of barley straw. It doesn't affect algae already present, but it prevents new algae. See info on this: http://montgomery.extension.psu.edu/nres...
How do you keep a fish tank clean?
I just bought a 30 gallon aquarium yesterday. It came with filter, heater, air pump, d茅cor, background, rocks鈥?everything I needed to get it started. I washed everything good with hot water and I put the water in. I got this stuff from the pet store, can鈥檛 remember the name but the guy at the store told me it would balance everything out. I am getting some fish tomorrow. My questions are is there any fish I could get that would keep the tank clean for me? I have heard this before but don鈥檛 know what kind. Also what are the best types of fish to mix together? I would like to have tropical fish (no goldfish) Any info on this subject would be great鈥 have never had an aquarium before. Thanks
Answers:
At this point, cleaning should not be your main focus I think. Right now you need to get this new tank cycled. As some of the other people will give you an answer on, you can do this with fish and without fish. I am not in favor of without fish and I have a fair amount of background in Chemistry. 30 gallon tank, I'd get some danio zebra's or possibly some tiger barbs, DEPENDING on what kind of long term fish you want. Do NOT go and buy your long term fish right now. You need to cycle the tank first and here is a link, of many different ones you can find out cycling. Please look this over before you go and get some very exotic but delicate fish.
http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.htm...
Now when you are cycled out, in a 30 gallon tank, I'd reccomend a couple small pleco's and possibly a decent sized Albino catfish. If you don't like the looks of an Albino cat or can't find, Cory Catfish are not bad at all. However, you will need to do some weekly water changes. When you do these changes, you will want to clean up the side of the tank and in the filter. You'll want to clean with the tank water, do not use soap and things like that. Clean your mechanical filter, usually a sponge type, with the aquarium water as well to reduce bacteria loss. To clean with aquarium water, hold some of the water you are changing out in the bucket and do your rinsing of the mechanical filter in there. Use a sterile sponge to clean the sides of your tank.
I am sure you are going to get lots of advise on how best to do this. Whatever you choose to follow I wish you best of luck, but if nothing else, read over the cycling before you go get your fish tomorrow.
Hmm. in Finding Nemo, there's a fish that cleans.What kind was that fish? And you can get a oxygenator. It keeps the tank fresh. You don't have to clean tha aquarium nomore.
after time things should settle to the bottom. No matter what you will have to clean the tank 3 months or so, don't empty all the water either. Sucky fishes do good with allege get a small one big ones don't do any thing . As far as fish you can get angel fish or anything else.DONT GET SALT WATER Fish. I have guppies and they breed all by themselves good luck oh yeah add some coral by balancing your PH levels.
There is no such thing as a fish that will clean your tank for you. The best you can get is snails, shrimp, and fish that will eat some of the algae - but they all create waste and further dirty the tank like any living creature.
The best advice for you in your position, is to invest in a good book on keeping tropical fish. One can't expect all of the information on fish keeping to be provided in a yahoo post.
Keeping a tank clean is about maintaining it well and not allowing it to become overly dirty in the first place. Weekly maintenance of partial water changes, gravel vacuuming, and algae scraping will keep things in order.
The best way is to do a 10% water change every two weeks and get a gravel vac and suction the gravel to remove fish waste. As far as fish go to keep the gravel clean you could go with a catfish, pleco, algae eater, or any type of scavenger fish. Community fish you can go with barbs, lemon tetras, neon tetras, molly, platty,clown loaches (or any loach), rainbow sharks, red-tail sharks, rainbows (these are cool schooling fish, Dianos. These are a few suggestions. As far as additives go you really do not need them if you have a good filter and do regular water changes. Just have your water tested every month at a local pet store or by a test kit.
Your first step is to get your tank cycled with a few hardy,inexpensive fish such as platies. If it doesn't cycle properly the toxic amonnia buildup causes fish to die and the water to be cloudy.
http://www.fishyou.com/saltwater/tankcyc...
Once your tank is cycled,and you are ready to add more fish, check out this site for what type are compatible tankmates.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
There aren't any fish that do the cleaning for you,some help(plecos,snails{be careful with these babies as they overpopulate in no time}),but you will still need to get your hands wet.
Weekly water changes (about 25%) with a gravel vac, not overfeeding the fish (only what they can eat within a couple of minutes),not placing the tank in direct sunlight and not leaving the tank lights on for hours on end (too much light promotes algea growth) should keep your tank looking its best!! You will occasionally need to wipe down the sides with an algea sponge or one of those magnetic cleaners.
If you do regular water changes and maintain your filtration you should rarely have to do any cleaning. Maybe the occasional scrubbing of algae, but my 30 gallon tank never needs algae cleaned out of it. Smaller tanks require a lot more effort and I have to clean the algae off my plants on a regular basis.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/gener...
And there is a ton of reference articles on everything on how to set up, maintain and deal with problems in your tank.
A Plecostomus will keep eat algae. But if you want to get that, you have to add in other fish to make sure it doesn't grow too big. A Chinese Algae Eater will also clean algae. Sometimes a Kissing Gourami will pick off algae from plant matter.
Answers:
At this point, cleaning should not be your main focus I think. Right now you need to get this new tank cycled. As some of the other people will give you an answer on, you can do this with fish and without fish. I am not in favor of without fish and I have a fair amount of background in Chemistry. 30 gallon tank, I'd get some danio zebra's or possibly some tiger barbs, DEPENDING on what kind of long term fish you want. Do NOT go and buy your long term fish right now. You need to cycle the tank first and here is a link, of many different ones you can find out cycling. Please look this over before you go and get some very exotic but delicate fish.
http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.htm...
Now when you are cycled out, in a 30 gallon tank, I'd reccomend a couple small pleco's and possibly a decent sized Albino catfish. If you don't like the looks of an Albino cat or can't find, Cory Catfish are not bad at all. However, you will need to do some weekly water changes. When you do these changes, you will want to clean up the side of the tank and in the filter. You'll want to clean with the tank water, do not use soap and things like that. Clean your mechanical filter, usually a sponge type, with the aquarium water as well to reduce bacteria loss. To clean with aquarium water, hold some of the water you are changing out in the bucket and do your rinsing of the mechanical filter in there. Use a sterile sponge to clean the sides of your tank.
I am sure you are going to get lots of advise on how best to do this. Whatever you choose to follow I wish you best of luck, but if nothing else, read over the cycling before you go get your fish tomorrow.
Hmm. in Finding Nemo, there's a fish that cleans.What kind was that fish? And you can get a oxygenator. It keeps the tank fresh. You don't have to clean tha aquarium nomore.
after time things should settle to the bottom. No matter what you will have to clean the tank 3 months or so, don't empty all the water either. Sucky fishes do good with allege get a small one big ones don't do any thing . As far as fish you can get angel fish or anything else.DONT GET SALT WATER Fish. I have guppies and they breed all by themselves good luck oh yeah add some coral by balancing your PH levels.
There is no such thing as a fish that will clean your tank for you. The best you can get is snails, shrimp, and fish that will eat some of the algae - but they all create waste and further dirty the tank like any living creature.
The best advice for you in your position, is to invest in a good book on keeping tropical fish. One can't expect all of the information on fish keeping to be provided in a yahoo post.
Keeping a tank clean is about maintaining it well and not allowing it to become overly dirty in the first place. Weekly maintenance of partial water changes, gravel vacuuming, and algae scraping will keep things in order.
The best way is to do a 10% water change every two weeks and get a gravel vac and suction the gravel to remove fish waste. As far as fish go to keep the gravel clean you could go with a catfish, pleco, algae eater, or any type of scavenger fish. Community fish you can go with barbs, lemon tetras, neon tetras, molly, platty,clown loaches (or any loach), rainbow sharks, red-tail sharks, rainbows (these are cool schooling fish, Dianos. These are a few suggestions. As far as additives go you really do not need them if you have a good filter and do regular water changes. Just have your water tested every month at a local pet store or by a test kit.
Your first step is to get your tank cycled with a few hardy,inexpensive fish such as platies. If it doesn't cycle properly the toxic amonnia buildup causes fish to die and the water to be cloudy.
http://www.fishyou.com/saltwater/tankcyc...
Once your tank is cycled,and you are ready to add more fish, check out this site for what type are compatible tankmates.
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?...
There aren't any fish that do the cleaning for you,some help(plecos,snails{be careful with these babies as they overpopulate in no time}),but you will still need to get your hands wet.
Weekly water changes (about 25%) with a gravel vac, not overfeeding the fish (only what they can eat within a couple of minutes),not placing the tank in direct sunlight and not leaving the tank lights on for hours on end (too much light promotes algea growth) should keep your tank looking its best!! You will occasionally need to wipe down the sides with an algea sponge or one of those magnetic cleaners.
If you do regular water changes and maintain your filtration you should rarely have to do any cleaning. Maybe the occasional scrubbing of algae, but my 30 gallon tank never needs algae cleaned out of it. Smaller tanks require a lot more effort and I have to clean the algae off my plants on a regular basis.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/gener...
And there is a ton of reference articles on everything on how to set up, maintain and deal with problems in your tank.
A Plecostomus will keep eat algae. But if you want to get that, you have to add in other fish to make sure it doesn't grow too big. A Chinese Algae Eater will also clean algae. Sometimes a Kissing Gourami will pick off algae from plant matter.
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