can shrimp live at home in tank
Answers:
they can, but what kind do you want?
Most shrimp can live with other community fish, but it depends on what kind of shrimp you're getting. Ghost Shrimp can get along with almost anything except Oscars and Cichilds.
There are two types of common freshwater aquarium shrimp.
===Algae eating shrimp:===
These guys are the smallest. They are most peaceful and can only be kept with other small, nonagressive fish. If you try putting them with other larger fish, even more peaceful ones, the shrimp will likely become expensive fish food. They are best kept with other shrimp or in a species tank.
Examples: Amano (yamato) Shrimp, Crystal Red Shrimp, Ghost Shrimp, Bumblebee Shrimp
Food: These shrimp like to graze on algae.
===Fan Shrimp===
These shrimp are much larger and often look pretty menacing.. although they are completely harmless. They can get to around 8 inches and have fan-like appendages in front of their mouths to 'sweep in' microorganisms, which they feed on. These shrimps will do best in an established, cycled aquarium since there has been a chance for lots of microorganisms to grow. They also like to sit in front of fast currents in the tank and have the food come to them :P Although these guys are more heavily protected against fish and are also larger, they still can become food to larger fish, especially oscars or aggressive cichlids.
Examples: African/Cameroun/Armored Fan Shrimp, Wood/Bamboo (Asian) Fan Shrimp
Food: Microorganisms.. don't worry about feeding them separate food.
Friday, May 8, 2009
How Can I Give My Goldfish A Better Life?
My two comet goldfish are six years old now, and I’m worried if all this time I have been unintentionally cruel to them by not looking after them properly?
What can I do for my fish to give them a better life? (it’s okay if it’s something expensive)
Their tank is 15inch long, 8inch high, 7inch wide.
They have an undergravel filter.
In their tank they only have gravel, some marbles, a rock with a hole in the middle, and one plastic plant.
I feed them “K9 Fish Food For Goldfish” which are floating-sinking pellets.
I try to change a quarter to half their water once a week (although honestly I occasionally forget).
Answers:
I'd suggest a larger tank (maybe even an outdoor pond where they could spend summers or live year-round if the climate is warm enough), upgrading their filter, and giving some other food varieties for treats (and balanced nutrition). Goldfish like any greens (spincah, romaine, collard), zucchini, peas, beans, and oranges - just blanch or freeze these for a few minutes to soften them.
They'd like live plants too, but would eat or uproot most!
As far as tank location - not by any windows (too much light = algae and the sun can warm their tank water) or anywhere there's a door or heating/cooling vent - keep the water temperature stable.
preferably, just release them on a freshwater and let them go by themselves...its really their home but im worried because they re not used to life on the wild.
For a goldfish maybe you put in real river aquatic plants and you can get natural pebbles from river banks its should help as goldfishes are fresh water fishes and you should try remembering their feeding time.
Whatever you do don't paint them with finger nail polish and put them on the ceiling fan to see how long it will take them to fly off. Sorry..just feeling a little guilt from something I did as a child.
I would keep doing what you are doing but maybe if you could afford it, give them a bigger tank.
Put a few mirrors in the tank maybe? oh and give them baby fishies.
You probaby dont need to give your goldy a good life because he probably wouldnt remember. Do you know your goldfish only has 3 seconds of memory?
Two comet goldfish should be too big for a tank only 15 inches long. The best thing you can do for them is get them a much larger tank, of at least 55 gallons if not larger. Six years is good to survive, but they may not survive longer if they are outgrowing their tank, since comets can grow to beyond 15 inches long themselves, and their insides will keep growing if the tank doesn't allow their outsides to grow.
Priority should be a much larger tank, and htey will have a marveous long life. Good job so far.:)
PS, research has proven that the three second memory thing is bunk -- you shouldn't torture animals anyway. But like I said you must be doing a great job taking care of them. Just get them a bigger tank, and add some more plants. Give them some frozen krill and their color will be gorgeous, and give htem some veggies once in a while also, like lettuce, the insides of peas, etc...
You need a bigger tank
and you can probably feed some frozen foods
try aquariacentral.com
The best thing you can do for your friends at this point is to upgrade their tank. Not only will this allow them more space to move, but it will also lessen the ammount of cleaning you have to do. Plus the more room they have to swim the more fun it is to watch them. Also i always reccomend real plants. They are interesting, provide your tank with oxygen, and give your fish something to nibble on if they feel like it. Real plants also make the tank look really natural and inviting.
If you want to keep the cost down of a new aquarium consider purchacing a used one online, you will be surprised at the people in your own back yard looking to get rid of tanks and their accessories.
Two goldfish should be in a 30 gallon tank. Your tank is less than 4 gallons. As mentioned, they have already outgrown the current tank and their growth has already been stunted. Stunted growth leads to a shorter life span (goldfish can easily live for 20+ years in an aquarium). Their organs outgrow their bodies leading to disease and death. I'm surprised that have lasted 6 years in that tank.
And for the person that said to release them to the wild. DO NOT do that. A non-native species can wreak havoc on the eco-system and cause irreparable damage. Just look at the problems caused my the snakehead fish in the US. Some states have had to go in and completely eradicate all life in lakes and ponds just to get rid of them and then restock with native fish again. In some places it is also a federal offense.
It doesn't matter where you put your tank, just try to keep it away from direct sunlight.
If your comets are 6 years old they should be around 10" in length. If your fish are half that size they are bein stunted. Really, they need a larger tank. That would be the best thing you could to to give them a longer healther life. As far as plants, they would be nice but would not last long. they will be uprooted and eaten to the nubs.
Goldfish need a balanced diet. When choosing a fish food choose one with high protein (48% or better) and low fat (5% or less)
You can supplement their diet with things like Lettuce, mustard greens, turnip greens, collard greens, spinach, peas, endive, seaweed, cukes, kale, chard, broccoli, lima beans, green beans, etc. and feed aquatic plants (e.g. duckweed, azolla, salvenia, etc) or hair algae daily.
For their Carotenoids which are a family of pigments the fish can't make themselves and are obtained as part of the diet. These pigments result in red, yellow and orange colors. Fish have cells called chromataphores. Those cells convert lutein and carotenes into astaxanthin which is the red pigment.
sources include, brine shrimp, krill, spirulina, marigold flowers, paprika, sweet red peppers, yams, carrots, pumpkin
Watermellons and oranges are also good as well as proteins like chicken (chicken livers) beef (livers and parts) and pork as well as worms and bugs.
you only need to change 25% of the water once a week.
Gold fish as well like pushing things around. If you decide to plant a new tank, try adding a few plastic floating balls. Baby toys, non toxic and larger than their mouths. I keep solar ball lights in the outside ponds for the fish to push around.
What can I do for my fish to give them a better life? (it’s okay if it’s something expensive)
Their tank is 15inch long, 8inch high, 7inch wide.
They have an undergravel filter.
In their tank they only have gravel, some marbles, a rock with a hole in the middle, and one plastic plant.
I feed them “K9 Fish Food For Goldfish” which are floating-sinking pellets.
I try to change a quarter to half their water once a week (although honestly I occasionally forget).
Answers:
I'd suggest a larger tank (maybe even an outdoor pond where they could spend summers or live year-round if the climate is warm enough), upgrading their filter, and giving some other food varieties for treats (and balanced nutrition). Goldfish like any greens (spincah, romaine, collard), zucchini, peas, beans, and oranges - just blanch or freeze these for a few minutes to soften them.
They'd like live plants too, but would eat or uproot most!
As far as tank location - not by any windows (too much light = algae and the sun can warm their tank water) or anywhere there's a door or heating/cooling vent - keep the water temperature stable.
preferably, just release them on a freshwater and let them go by themselves...its really their home but im worried because they re not used to life on the wild.
For a goldfish maybe you put in real river aquatic plants and you can get natural pebbles from river banks its should help as goldfishes are fresh water fishes and you should try remembering their feeding time.
Whatever you do don't paint them with finger nail polish and put them on the ceiling fan to see how long it will take them to fly off. Sorry..just feeling a little guilt from something I did as a child.
I would keep doing what you are doing but maybe if you could afford it, give them a bigger tank.
Put a few mirrors in the tank maybe? oh and give them baby fishies.
You probaby dont need to give your goldy a good life because he probably wouldnt remember. Do you know your goldfish only has 3 seconds of memory?
Two comet goldfish should be too big for a tank only 15 inches long. The best thing you can do for them is get them a much larger tank, of at least 55 gallons if not larger. Six years is good to survive, but they may not survive longer if they are outgrowing their tank, since comets can grow to beyond 15 inches long themselves, and their insides will keep growing if the tank doesn't allow their outsides to grow.
Priority should be a much larger tank, and htey will have a marveous long life. Good job so far.:)
PS, research has proven that the three second memory thing is bunk -- you shouldn't torture animals anyway. But like I said you must be doing a great job taking care of them. Just get them a bigger tank, and add some more plants. Give them some frozen krill and their color will be gorgeous, and give htem some veggies once in a while also, like lettuce, the insides of peas, etc...
You need a bigger tank
and you can probably feed some frozen foods
try aquariacentral.com
The best thing you can do for your friends at this point is to upgrade their tank. Not only will this allow them more space to move, but it will also lessen the ammount of cleaning you have to do. Plus the more room they have to swim the more fun it is to watch them. Also i always reccomend real plants. They are interesting, provide your tank with oxygen, and give your fish something to nibble on if they feel like it. Real plants also make the tank look really natural and inviting.
If you want to keep the cost down of a new aquarium consider purchacing a used one online, you will be surprised at the people in your own back yard looking to get rid of tanks and their accessories.
Two goldfish should be in a 30 gallon tank. Your tank is less than 4 gallons. As mentioned, they have already outgrown the current tank and their growth has already been stunted. Stunted growth leads to a shorter life span (goldfish can easily live for 20+ years in an aquarium). Their organs outgrow their bodies leading to disease and death. I'm surprised that have lasted 6 years in that tank.
And for the person that said to release them to the wild. DO NOT do that. A non-native species can wreak havoc on the eco-system and cause irreparable damage. Just look at the problems caused my the snakehead fish in the US. Some states have had to go in and completely eradicate all life in lakes and ponds just to get rid of them and then restock with native fish again. In some places it is also a federal offense.
It doesn't matter where you put your tank, just try to keep it away from direct sunlight.
If your comets are 6 years old they should be around 10" in length. If your fish are half that size they are bein stunted. Really, they need a larger tank. That would be the best thing you could to to give them a longer healther life. As far as plants, they would be nice but would not last long. they will be uprooted and eaten to the nubs.
Goldfish need a balanced diet. When choosing a fish food choose one with high protein (48% or better) and low fat (5% or less)
You can supplement their diet with things like Lettuce, mustard greens, turnip greens, collard greens, spinach, peas, endive, seaweed, cukes, kale, chard, broccoli, lima beans, green beans, etc. and feed aquatic plants (e.g. duckweed, azolla, salvenia, etc) or hair algae daily.
For their Carotenoids which are a family of pigments the fish can't make themselves and are obtained as part of the diet. These pigments result in red, yellow and orange colors. Fish have cells called chromataphores. Those cells convert lutein and carotenes into astaxanthin which is the red pigment.
sources include, brine shrimp, krill, spirulina, marigold flowers, paprika, sweet red peppers, yams, carrots, pumpkin
Watermellons and oranges are also good as well as proteins like chicken (chicken livers) beef (livers and parts) and pork as well as worms and bugs.
you only need to change 25% of the water once a week.
Gold fish as well like pushing things around. If you decide to plant a new tank, try adding a few plastic floating balls. Baby toys, non toxic and larger than their mouths. I keep solar ball lights in the outside ponds for the fish to push around.
How can i get rid of green stand of weed from my fish pond?
i have green stands of weed in my fish pond i cant get rid of it help
Answers:
Depends what type of weed, how much there is %26 fish levels etc. Some forms are beneficial others detrimental. Did you introduce the plant to the pond ? Did it just appear there ? If you introduced it you presumably did so for a reason, so just cut it back a little. Oxygenation %26 cover for the fish are provided by plants.
If you don't already have plants in your pond, I would suggest leaving them there - plants help by taking out a little of the nitrate buildup in your pond, and oxyginating the water. If you do have plants, but don't mind if they're eaten, you could introduce apple snails, or plant eating fish such as Amur (Ctenopharyngodon idella) to control it.
Aside from using tinting chemicals (Pond safe), removing it yourself the only other options that actually work are 1 add floating plants like water lettuce or hyciths. this will help to shade the pond and keep the algae from feeding. Also you can add phosporus pads to your filter box which will choak out the feed. If you have plants and feed them, stop. If you have no other plants, get yourself some lillies or cattails.
How to combat Blanket Weed and Green Water
Green water is caused by millions of tiny, single celled plants called Algae. Like all plants they contain a green pigment called Chlorophyll which is used in the process of manufacturing food. The sheer volume of Algae cells can turn pond water into a green, pea soup consistency.
Whilst not immediately damaging to the pond, (sudden die back of the algae can cause de-oxygenation as billions of bacteria multiply to feed off the mass of decaying cells), it is unsightly and can be contained or eliminated by implementation of one or more of the following recommendations.
Step 1. INCREASE PLANTING.
Plants in the pond compete with the Algae for the available organic food source in the form of Nitrates and Phosphates therefore the more plants there are, the lower the volumes of these chemicals. Some plants in particular are good Nitrate and Phosphate strippers such as: Tillea Recurva (Crassula), Eleocharis sp. (Hair Grass), members of the cress family such as Nasturtium Aquaticum, Hottonia Palustris (Water Violet) and all oxygenators (Elodea, Myriophyllum, etc.) As a general rule, allow for 3-4 marginal plants plus 5-10 bunched oxygenators per square metre (10.5 sq ft) of surface area. See also: 鈥樷€橧ncrease surface cover鈥欌€?below.
Step 2. INCREASE SURFACE COVER.
Increasing surface cover reduces light penetration. Algae needs light for its Chlorophyll pigment to produce food, so reducing light entering the pond reduces Algal growth rate. Surface cover should be in the region of 30% for ponds in shaded positions and up to 65% for ponds in full sun. To increase cover use deep water plants which produce surface leaf such as Water Lilies, Water Hawthorn, Nymphoides Peltata (Water Fringe), Spatterdock, Orontium. Also floating plants such as Fairy Moss (available early season), Frogbit, Water Hyacinth and Water Chestnut. Shrubs and heavy leafed plants can be planted poolside to overhang the water so providing shade.
Step 3. Check Water Ph.
The Ph of the pond water is the measure of its acidity or alkalinity. The more alkaline the water the more likely Algae is to be a problem. Ph can be checked with simple test kits and subsequent remedial action taken. A Ph over 7.5 would usually require some attention. Special pond peats made from humic materials contained in mesh bags can effect slow release treatment over long periods, gently altering the Ph naturally. These work best when used with liquid humic acid extracts. For more severe situations, buffering powders and liquids are available, although care in their use must be taken so as not to alter the Ph too quickly in a short space of time. Ph tests should be taken three times in one day (morning, mid-day and early evening) to establish an average as the actual Ph can vary due to the influence of various bio-chemical fluctuations occurring as natural processes within the pond.
Step 4. Reduce Fish Feeding.
If the pond contains fish, stop feeding them immediately during an Algae bloom. Proprietary foods should be considered as dietary supplements only, ignore manufacturer's instructions, (whose aim is to increase volume sales of their product), and feed small amounts of food two or three times per week only. Excess food either remains uneaten so decaying and releasing its nutrient value for the Algae to utilise, or is passed as waste by fish which eventually contributes to Nitrate and Phosphate build up.
Step 5. Add Water Movement and Agitation.
Small fountain pumps and waterfall features agitate the water removing surface film where the gaseous exchange occurs and liberate excess Carbon Dioxide (CO2) to the atmosphere. CO2 is produced by plants during darkness so water movement should be left on during the night and preferably twenty-four hours during the season. Algae blooms often occur when the first morning sun hits the pond. With this stimulation and massive amounts of CO2 present, Algae cells can, in these ideal conditions, multiply over four times an hour.
Step 6. Consider Fitting an Ultra Violet Steriliser (UV).
UV's are the only way to guarantee crystal clear water and over 80% effective more than 80% of the time. Even in the height of summer often only a slight haze is the only evidence that the UV is locked in mortal combat with the Algae cells. As a bonus for fish keepers, UV's dramatically reduce or eliminate the incidence of water borne pathogenic bacteria, parasites and fungal spores. They are best used in conjunction with a biological filter unit although they are usually effective as stand alone units as long as the pump feeding them is fitted with an intake filter over-foam. UV's must be used 24 hours a day.
UV tubes, contained within the unit should be replaced each season as their efficiency is reduced by up to 60% during a 26 week period rendering them ineffective. Contrary to popular belief, UV's will have no effect whatsoever on the filament Algae commonly called Blanket Weed.
Step 7. Algae Control Products.
A host of powders, liquids and tablets are available to control green water and Blanket Weed Algae. Whilst these can be effective if used strictly as recommended, extreme caution must be used as they can de-stabilise the pond environment if dosed incorrectly or used too often. They may also affect plant growth, lilies in particular are very sensitive to these chemicals. Three manufacturers: Tetra, Hagen and Interpet, have introduced a number of environmentally friendly Algaecides that have to be recommended above all others. In recent years barley straw products have proved to be very popular and can sometimes be very effective. How effective does, however, appear to vary considerably from pond to pond. Newest additions to the algae combat range are barley straw liquid extracts marketed under a variety of brand names which will either specifically mention barley straw or call themselves 'natural' or 'bioactive'. Initial tests on this product have been very encouraging and it may well prove to be the ultimate anti-algae remedy. (See Anti Algae products in Pond Treatments section of this website).
Latest additions in the war against algae and proving to be extremely effective are Microbial products. These consume phosphates and nitrates drastically reducing or even eliminating them entirely. With reduced levels of these organics all algae's are starved and die back. A comprehensive range of microbial products are produced by 'viresco' available on this website.
Algae problems occur at different levels and at different times in all ponds and are the manifestation of a complex bio-chemical equation. By addressing one or more elements of the equation it is possible to effect satisfactory control over it and by employing one or more of the techniques above the balance may become tipped against green water and blanket weed in your pond.
Wow, some one really went to town on the answer above! I was just gonna say, I have an amazing, extremely useful gadget to get rid of it mechanically: its called, screw in a paddle. And, it is an old paddle (as in ore), with a screw in the end of it. You put the screw end in the water in the weed, and twist the paddle - all the stringy weed comes up onto it!
But yeh, do this every so often, make sure you have adequate filtration, are not over stocked, are not over feeding, dont have tree's above (falling leaves rot and produce nitrate, which makes weeds grow), try and shade an area of the pond, grow some plants in it (and keep THEM in check), bla bla bla, your sorted.
Hope this helps!
Ashley
Answers:
Depends what type of weed, how much there is %26 fish levels etc. Some forms are beneficial others detrimental. Did you introduce the plant to the pond ? Did it just appear there ? If you introduced it you presumably did so for a reason, so just cut it back a little. Oxygenation %26 cover for the fish are provided by plants.
If you don't already have plants in your pond, I would suggest leaving them there - plants help by taking out a little of the nitrate buildup in your pond, and oxyginating the water. If you do have plants, but don't mind if they're eaten, you could introduce apple snails, or plant eating fish such as Amur (Ctenopharyngodon idella) to control it.
Aside from using tinting chemicals (Pond safe), removing it yourself the only other options that actually work are 1 add floating plants like water lettuce or hyciths. this will help to shade the pond and keep the algae from feeding. Also you can add phosporus pads to your filter box which will choak out the feed. If you have plants and feed them, stop. If you have no other plants, get yourself some lillies or cattails.
How to combat Blanket Weed and Green Water
Green water is caused by millions of tiny, single celled plants called Algae. Like all plants they contain a green pigment called Chlorophyll which is used in the process of manufacturing food. The sheer volume of Algae cells can turn pond water into a green, pea soup consistency.
Whilst not immediately damaging to the pond, (sudden die back of the algae can cause de-oxygenation as billions of bacteria multiply to feed off the mass of decaying cells), it is unsightly and can be contained or eliminated by implementation of one or more of the following recommendations.
Step 1. INCREASE PLANTING.
Plants in the pond compete with the Algae for the available organic food source in the form of Nitrates and Phosphates therefore the more plants there are, the lower the volumes of these chemicals. Some plants in particular are good Nitrate and Phosphate strippers such as: Tillea Recurva (Crassula), Eleocharis sp. (Hair Grass), members of the cress family such as Nasturtium Aquaticum, Hottonia Palustris (Water Violet) and all oxygenators (Elodea, Myriophyllum, etc.) As a general rule, allow for 3-4 marginal plants plus 5-10 bunched oxygenators per square metre (10.5 sq ft) of surface area. See also: 鈥樷€橧ncrease surface cover鈥欌€?below.
Step 2. INCREASE SURFACE COVER.
Increasing surface cover reduces light penetration. Algae needs light for its Chlorophyll pigment to produce food, so reducing light entering the pond reduces Algal growth rate. Surface cover should be in the region of 30% for ponds in shaded positions and up to 65% for ponds in full sun. To increase cover use deep water plants which produce surface leaf such as Water Lilies, Water Hawthorn, Nymphoides Peltata (Water Fringe), Spatterdock, Orontium. Also floating plants such as Fairy Moss (available early season), Frogbit, Water Hyacinth and Water Chestnut. Shrubs and heavy leafed plants can be planted poolside to overhang the water so providing shade.
Step 3. Check Water Ph.
The Ph of the pond water is the measure of its acidity or alkalinity. The more alkaline the water the more likely Algae is to be a problem. Ph can be checked with simple test kits and subsequent remedial action taken. A Ph over 7.5 would usually require some attention. Special pond peats made from humic materials contained in mesh bags can effect slow release treatment over long periods, gently altering the Ph naturally. These work best when used with liquid humic acid extracts. For more severe situations, buffering powders and liquids are available, although care in their use must be taken so as not to alter the Ph too quickly in a short space of time. Ph tests should be taken three times in one day (morning, mid-day and early evening) to establish an average as the actual Ph can vary due to the influence of various bio-chemical fluctuations occurring as natural processes within the pond.
Step 4. Reduce Fish Feeding.
If the pond contains fish, stop feeding them immediately during an Algae bloom. Proprietary foods should be considered as dietary supplements only, ignore manufacturer's instructions, (whose aim is to increase volume sales of their product), and feed small amounts of food two or three times per week only. Excess food either remains uneaten so decaying and releasing its nutrient value for the Algae to utilise, or is passed as waste by fish which eventually contributes to Nitrate and Phosphate build up.
Step 5. Add Water Movement and Agitation.
Small fountain pumps and waterfall features agitate the water removing surface film where the gaseous exchange occurs and liberate excess Carbon Dioxide (CO2) to the atmosphere. CO2 is produced by plants during darkness so water movement should be left on during the night and preferably twenty-four hours during the season. Algae blooms often occur when the first morning sun hits the pond. With this stimulation and massive amounts of CO2 present, Algae cells can, in these ideal conditions, multiply over four times an hour.
Step 6. Consider Fitting an Ultra Violet Steriliser (UV).
UV's are the only way to guarantee crystal clear water and over 80% effective more than 80% of the time. Even in the height of summer often only a slight haze is the only evidence that the UV is locked in mortal combat with the Algae cells. As a bonus for fish keepers, UV's dramatically reduce or eliminate the incidence of water borne pathogenic bacteria, parasites and fungal spores. They are best used in conjunction with a biological filter unit although they are usually effective as stand alone units as long as the pump feeding them is fitted with an intake filter over-foam. UV's must be used 24 hours a day.
UV tubes, contained within the unit should be replaced each season as their efficiency is reduced by up to 60% during a 26 week period rendering them ineffective. Contrary to popular belief, UV's will have no effect whatsoever on the filament Algae commonly called Blanket Weed.
Step 7. Algae Control Products.
A host of powders, liquids and tablets are available to control green water and Blanket Weed Algae. Whilst these can be effective if used strictly as recommended, extreme caution must be used as they can de-stabilise the pond environment if dosed incorrectly or used too often. They may also affect plant growth, lilies in particular are very sensitive to these chemicals. Three manufacturers: Tetra, Hagen and Interpet, have introduced a number of environmentally friendly Algaecides that have to be recommended above all others. In recent years barley straw products have proved to be very popular and can sometimes be very effective. How effective does, however, appear to vary considerably from pond to pond. Newest additions to the algae combat range are barley straw liquid extracts marketed under a variety of brand names which will either specifically mention barley straw or call themselves 'natural' or 'bioactive'. Initial tests on this product have been very encouraging and it may well prove to be the ultimate anti-algae remedy. (See Anti Algae products in Pond Treatments section of this website).
Latest additions in the war against algae and proving to be extremely effective are Microbial products. These consume phosphates and nitrates drastically reducing or even eliminating them entirely. With reduced levels of these organics all algae's are starved and die back. A comprehensive range of microbial products are produced by 'viresco' available on this website.
Algae problems occur at different levels and at different times in all ponds and are the manifestation of a complex bio-chemical equation. By addressing one or more elements of the equation it is possible to effect satisfactory control over it and by employing one or more of the techniques above the balance may become tipped against green water and blanket weed in your pond.
Wow, some one really went to town on the answer above! I was just gonna say, I have an amazing, extremely useful gadget to get rid of it mechanically: its called, screw in a paddle. And, it is an old paddle (as in ore), with a screw in the end of it. You put the screw end in the water in the weed, and twist the paddle - all the stringy weed comes up onto it!
But yeh, do this every so often, make sure you have adequate filtration, are not over stocked, are not over feeding, dont have tree's above (falling leaves rot and produce nitrate, which makes weeds grow), try and shade an area of the pond, grow some plants in it (and keep THEM in check), bla bla bla, your sorted.
Hope this helps!
Ashley
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