Sunday, August 2, 2009
How do you make goldfish have babies?
Answers:
they have to be old enough of the right sexes and you have to condition them meaning lots of live food and arefully balanced water conditions. It isnt worth the time for most people
You can't make them...
They either will or won't.
They reproduce just like other fish...
脽眉bbl毛拧
What do you keep your goldfish in?
They don't breed until they are at least a few inches long, and are far more likely to spawn in a pond, than they are to do so, in a tank.
Otherwise, try Google, and see what you can come up with.
How do you Lower Water Hardness In a fish tank?
I just bought a test kit, even so I owned fish for a year ( even though I just found out about the nitrogen cycle..). Anyways, I found that I have no ammonia problems, but that I have a high pH, and High water hardness (380-420). And my fish are taking an abnormally large amount of craps. I'm not sure what my fish species are, but I also found that there are now baby minnows in the tank, so some of the fish must of mated =). Any advice on how to lower the water hardness and possibly any side comments on what to do with the baby minnows? Oh, and none of the fish are big enough to eat them (hopefully). I keep fresh water fish.
Answers:
Unless you have species that absolutely require soft water (like discus) or low pH, I wouldn't worry about changing either - and it's probably the hardness that's causing a higher pH. Most fish are at home in pH levels from 6-8, and I've kept tropicals at a pH of 8.2 with no problems.
About the only ways to do this would so the pH doesn't fluctuate would be to use a water softener at your home, or use reverse osmosis water (you can buy a filter for your home or get it at larger supermarkets bottled or from self-serve dispensers). You could mix purchased water with your own in whatever ratio necessary. Chemical buffers cause the pH to swing, and the fish prever a stable environment.
Your fish also seem to be suffering from constipation. This could be from being fed too much (only give them what they and eat in 2-3 minutes twice a day!), too much dry food (soak flakes or pellets a few minutes before feeding), or incorrect foods (if you fish are herbivores or omnivores, they'll benefit from getting some vegetable matter in their diet). Try not feeding them for two days, then give them some cooked peas with the skins off. This will help with extra fiber to "push" anything else throught their system. After that, feed a little less than usual, and try adding a bit more variety to what you feed - fish will also eat squash, romaine lettuce, algae flakes, and other veggies if their frozen so they soften. The babies will probably eat what the adults do - you may just need to crush up the pellets/flakes so they're a smaller size.
Find out what pH level your fish prefer...you can search on google, and then you can buy a chemical to either lower the pH...don;t lower by more than .2 every 24 hours or you can kill them, or they sell perfect pH. Buy the one that matches the pH they prefer and add it every time you change the water. Easy as can be!
Answers:
Unless you have species that absolutely require soft water (like discus) or low pH, I wouldn't worry about changing either - and it's probably the hardness that's causing a higher pH. Most fish are at home in pH levels from 6-8, and I've kept tropicals at a pH of 8.2 with no problems.
About the only ways to do this would so the pH doesn't fluctuate would be to use a water softener at your home, or use reverse osmosis water (you can buy a filter for your home or get it at larger supermarkets bottled or from self-serve dispensers). You could mix purchased water with your own in whatever ratio necessary. Chemical buffers cause the pH to swing, and the fish prever a stable environment.
Your fish also seem to be suffering from constipation. This could be from being fed too much (only give them what they and eat in 2-3 minutes twice a day!), too much dry food (soak flakes or pellets a few minutes before feeding), or incorrect foods (if you fish are herbivores or omnivores, they'll benefit from getting some vegetable matter in their diet). Try not feeding them for two days, then give them some cooked peas with the skins off. This will help with extra fiber to "push" anything else throught their system. After that, feed a little less than usual, and try adding a bit more variety to what you feed - fish will also eat squash, romaine lettuce, algae flakes, and other veggies if their frozen so they soften. The babies will probably eat what the adults do - you may just need to crush up the pellets/flakes so they're a smaller size.
Find out what pH level your fish prefer...you can search on google, and then you can buy a chemical to either lower the pH...don;t lower by more than .2 every 24 hours or you can kill them, or they sell perfect pH. Buy the one that matches the pH they prefer and add it every time you change the water. Easy as can be!
How do you know when an endler (live bearing fish) is pregnant and not just fat?
Answers:
Just like Fancy Guppies they develop a gravid spot or dark area at the end of their stomach. This female is slightly pregnant
http://www.geocities.com/endlers_livebea...
Hope that helps
MM
i dont know about the endler exactly but in my time of having fish the diff between fat and preg are simple, a fish can get bigger and bigger but always stay in proportion. if pregnant their belly gets massive compared to rest of body, u can just see they pregnant. if they just got suddenly really big...it simply grew. much luv xxxx
It is very hard to tell in the beginning, but when she is further along, it is easier. There are ultrasounds for our fishy friends so there is no real fool-proof way. Look at some pictures of pregnant fish and normally you can tell the difference. Just like pregnant women look different from fat ones. A fish usually doesn't get too large. So if she's humongous, shes probably pregnant.
Has she been in contact with a male? You can easily sex live bearing fish. If you are unsure how, feel free to email me or do a quick google search but you seem to know some about live bearers.
The best method I have found is to look on their lower section for a black or brown spot. It is called a gravid spot and if you look close enough you should see tiny eyes. The group together forming the spot. If it is a guppy however, i have found this method doesn't work as well. Many of my guppies have those spots but are not pregnant. The color of the gravid spot can sometimes be used to know how close the fish is to giving birth. A good rule of thumb is the darker, the sooner.
Also keep in mind that if she is pregnant, fish can house sperm and can continue to have batches of baby's. A guppy of mine had 6 more batches after being separated!
Good luck and hope the best for your (maybe) fry! Please tell me everything turns out.
You can always tell when a live bearing fish is preganant. Just look at the stomach and if it is going dark then the fish is full of fry which she will give birth to about 28 days after she have done her deeds with a male fish
How do you know when a coy fish is pregnant or not?
if it is should we take it out away from the other fishes in the tank
Answers:
Koi are of the egg-laying genre of fish, you might say. If there is a ready male and female together, the eggs will be lain in a pre-prepared (lol) place that the female has chosen. If you plan on breeding the koi, just place multiple ammounts of both sexes in the same tank and they will pair up; this is common of most/all egg-layers. From there, you may or may not choose to remove the breeding couple, but its not mandatory.
You mean koi? Fish don't get pregnant, they lay eggs.
Answers:
Koi are of the egg-laying genre of fish, you might say. If there is a ready male and female together, the eggs will be lain in a pre-prepared (lol) place that the female has chosen. If you plan on breeding the koi, just place multiple ammounts of both sexes in the same tank and they will pair up; this is common of most/all egg-layers. From there, you may or may not choose to remove the breeding couple, but its not mandatory.
You mean koi? Fish don't get pregnant, they lay eggs.
How do you know if your fish are pregnant?
if it helps they are yellow tangs
Answers:
Though the Yellow Tang has not yet been bred in captivity, this species has been observed in group spawning as well as pair spawning in the ocean. In pair spawning each males will defend a territory and attempt to attract females passing by.
Usually, their tummies become bigger than usual.
Their stomach gets big.
They would lessen their swimming and seem to rest more than usual and look alittle bloated.
If they are yellow tangs, they're not pregnant. Never happened in captivity.
It is my understanding that they have not been breed in captivity yet. they are thought to be egg-layers as well.
Answers:
Though the Yellow Tang has not yet been bred in captivity, this species has been observed in group spawning as well as pair spawning in the ocean. In pair spawning each males will defend a territory and attempt to attract females passing by.
Usually, their tummies become bigger than usual.
Their stomach gets big.
They would lessen their swimming and seem to rest more than usual and look alittle bloated.
If they are yellow tangs, they're not pregnant. Never happened in captivity.
It is my understanding that they have not been breed in captivity yet. they are thought to be egg-layers as well.
How do you keep tropical fish?
wot temp do you keep the water,iv got a heater and iv set it at 21c,is that rght.does eny one no a good book on keeping tropical fish.
Answers:
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/bag.pdf...
http://www2.tetra.de/tet_internet_import...
Here two good free books.
in a fish tank... hahahahhahahahhaahhahahhahahah...
They keep for months in the freezer.
i didn't read a book. a dvd came with my aquariam. all the advice i can give u is to remember to clean the tank. the fish really die!
you : how do you keep tropical fish ?
me : you don't , easy if you do not know don't do it !
Okay first its better if you buy a larger tank 10 gallon to 20 will be enough to keep the tank at room temp. and a heater would not be required, as long as you keep you house normal.
2 tropical fish will die, think of it this way: at least 1 out of every
3 fish you buy will die. this is natural.
Dont over clean your fish tank.
Dont stick foreign objects in the tank (no sponges from the kitchen sink)
Dont use chemicals to clean the tank
Dont over feed fish
etc.. hope that helps, feel free to email for more advice.
In an aquarium with clean slightly warm water and a little food. READ a book,and start slow and learn from experience.
try this site, lots of info and it's free to become a member:
http://www.thinkfish.co.uk/
The temp should be 26c with a ph of 7, lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours if your live plants or less with plastic ones, get the right size filter as well, try this site practical fishkeeping magazine
21c is a bit cold,keep temp between 24c-26c and speek to the people who sell you your fish,good luck
All books that guide you in the hobby is useful, and in your own words..''good''
But fish-rearing isn't that basic, there is no definite temperature for all fish types, they differ according to their natural habitat.
You should study the species you wish to rear before initiating further adjustments to your tank.
21 Is too cold for tropical freshwater fish. The only things that live at that temperature are Goldfish and other coldwater species like paradise fish. If you put a tropical fish in water that cold, they'll be prone to illness.
24.4 to 25.5 is the ideal temperature for most tropical fish.
Go to www.fishforums.net - they have lots of threads about beginner set ups and if you have a question not covered you can pose it in the forum - some people are a bit odd... but overall you can get great advice from people who have successfully kept fish for many years and really know their stuff.
firstly i would add about a 3 to 4 inch deep layer of gravel at the base of the tank you can buy it from any good pet shop i would also add some features in the tank such as a bridge or ship a diving helmet maybe or a no fishing sign etc make their home interesting for them to live in add some plants real ones are better as they oxygenate the water and provide natural food for the fish but plastic ones are ok
fill the tank with tepid water from tap within about 1inch from top of tank the heater set at 21 c or 71 f is just about perfect i try to ensure mine never rises above 24 c 75 f it does vary though depending on time of year in the summer i turn my heater down a bit and in the winter turn it up a bit accordingly it can also depend where you place the tank keep an eye on temperature especially if the tank is near a radiator for instance this will allow temperature to fluctuate greatly and it is better to keep it away from an appliance like that if possible.
fit the lighting tubes into hood of the tank lid they need to be left on for about 10 to 12 hours a day this simulates artificial daylight for the fish but try not to leave on any longer than this as the light along with the heat will allow algae to grow after 10 to 12 hours turn off the lights to simulate night time it is fascinating watching fish sleep i have my lights on a timer switch makes life so much easier
set up the filtration unit make sure that you do not turn it on until it is submerged under water especially if it is a fluval type this needs to be kept running constantly as this prevents toxins building up in the water and killing your fish eg rotting food or fish waste
it is a personal choice and by no means vital but i would strongly recommend the additon of airstones they are relatively cheap 拢2 or 拢3 pounds and provide valuable extra oxygen in the water which makes the water much more fish friendly as the more oxygen in the water the more active they can be
now you are just about ready to go i would strongly recommend especially if it is a brand new tank to let the filters and airstones run for about a week before introducing any fish i would also strongly advise you add water additives to purify it and get things like ammonia and nitrates out of the water as they are very harmful to fish last thing you want is to stock it with 拢30 quids worth of fish and lose them because water is not correct look for fluids like ammo lock and safe water they are available from any good pet shop i would also do a ph test to check your water i try to keep mine below 5
now we get to the bit you have been waitng for the fish drumroll for a new tank and especially if you are new to keeping tropical fish i would only add the following breeds of fish these are all really placid and good community fish and really easy to keep and maintain and dont really need any special kind of food some fish require bloodworm and other supplements i would keep it simple with these types initailly yuo can always add to it as you go along the fish i would recommend are:
neon tetras - best in small shoals of 6 or more
black widow tetras - again around 6 is a good number
mollys/guppys - i would introduce both males and females and your fish count will increase naturally quite quickly i would add around 10 to 12 of these to start there are some beautifully coloured fish available
plectomus / cat fish / loach - i would add a minmum of one of these if not two as they live off the algae and help to keep tank clean
snails and frogs - these also help to keep tank nice and clean
ok so thats the fish taken care of and settled now lets look at the type of food you should feed them and how much of it and how often
the tetra's guppy's and molly's will be quite happy with flake i personally prefer aquarian it offers good value for money and nutrititon for the fish its around 拢4 or 5 for a big tub
the catfish and loaches will be happy with algae wafers again around 拢 3 or 4 pound a tub mark
the frogs and snails will live off the algae wafers too
i would feed only 2 or 3 algae wafers and as regards flake you dont want to feed a lot just a couple of small pinches will be enough try to leave the flakes as big as you can it makes the food easier to find for the fish i only feed every other day its best to keep them on the hungry side keeps them more active and healthy overfeeding can cause toxins in the water as food not eaten will begin to rot which in turn can kill the fish
hope this helps you get started as for books there are loads in any good pet shops im sure you will find one that is most suitable for you good luck
Answers:
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/bag.pdf...
http://www2.tetra.de/tet_internet_import...
Here two good free books.
in a fish tank... hahahahhahahahhaahhahahhahahah...
They keep for months in the freezer.
i didn't read a book. a dvd came with my aquariam. all the advice i can give u is to remember to clean the tank. the fish really die!
you : how do you keep tropical fish ?
me : you don't , easy if you do not know don't do it !
Okay first its better if you buy a larger tank 10 gallon to 20 will be enough to keep the tank at room temp. and a heater would not be required, as long as you keep you house normal.
2 tropical fish will die, think of it this way: at least 1 out of every
3 fish you buy will die. this is natural.
Dont over clean your fish tank.
Dont stick foreign objects in the tank (no sponges from the kitchen sink)
Dont use chemicals to clean the tank
Dont over feed fish
etc.. hope that helps, feel free to email for more advice.
In an aquarium with clean slightly warm water and a little food. READ a book,and start slow and learn from experience.
try this site, lots of info and it's free to become a member:
http://www.thinkfish.co.uk/
The temp should be 26c with a ph of 7, lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours if your live plants or less with plastic ones, get the right size filter as well, try this site practical fishkeeping magazine
21c is a bit cold,keep temp between 24c-26c and speek to the people who sell you your fish,good luck
All books that guide you in the hobby is useful, and in your own words..''good''
But fish-rearing isn't that basic, there is no definite temperature for all fish types, they differ according to their natural habitat.
You should study the species you wish to rear before initiating further adjustments to your tank.
21 Is too cold for tropical freshwater fish. The only things that live at that temperature are Goldfish and other coldwater species like paradise fish. If you put a tropical fish in water that cold, they'll be prone to illness.
24.4 to 25.5 is the ideal temperature for most tropical fish.
Go to www.fishforums.net - they have lots of threads about beginner set ups and if you have a question not covered you can pose it in the forum - some people are a bit odd... but overall you can get great advice from people who have successfully kept fish for many years and really know their stuff.
firstly i would add about a 3 to 4 inch deep layer of gravel at the base of the tank you can buy it from any good pet shop i would also add some features in the tank such as a bridge or ship a diving helmet maybe or a no fishing sign etc make their home interesting for them to live in add some plants real ones are better as they oxygenate the water and provide natural food for the fish but plastic ones are ok
fill the tank with tepid water from tap within about 1inch from top of tank the heater set at 21 c or 71 f is just about perfect i try to ensure mine never rises above 24 c 75 f it does vary though depending on time of year in the summer i turn my heater down a bit and in the winter turn it up a bit accordingly it can also depend where you place the tank keep an eye on temperature especially if the tank is near a radiator for instance this will allow temperature to fluctuate greatly and it is better to keep it away from an appliance like that if possible.
fit the lighting tubes into hood of the tank lid they need to be left on for about 10 to 12 hours a day this simulates artificial daylight for the fish but try not to leave on any longer than this as the light along with the heat will allow algae to grow after 10 to 12 hours turn off the lights to simulate night time it is fascinating watching fish sleep i have my lights on a timer switch makes life so much easier
set up the filtration unit make sure that you do not turn it on until it is submerged under water especially if it is a fluval type this needs to be kept running constantly as this prevents toxins building up in the water and killing your fish eg rotting food or fish waste
it is a personal choice and by no means vital but i would strongly recommend the additon of airstones they are relatively cheap 拢2 or 拢3 pounds and provide valuable extra oxygen in the water which makes the water much more fish friendly as the more oxygen in the water the more active they can be
now you are just about ready to go i would strongly recommend especially if it is a brand new tank to let the filters and airstones run for about a week before introducing any fish i would also strongly advise you add water additives to purify it and get things like ammonia and nitrates out of the water as they are very harmful to fish last thing you want is to stock it with 拢30 quids worth of fish and lose them because water is not correct look for fluids like ammo lock and safe water they are available from any good pet shop i would also do a ph test to check your water i try to keep mine below 5
now we get to the bit you have been waitng for the fish drumroll for a new tank and especially if you are new to keeping tropical fish i would only add the following breeds of fish these are all really placid and good community fish and really easy to keep and maintain and dont really need any special kind of food some fish require bloodworm and other supplements i would keep it simple with these types initailly yuo can always add to it as you go along the fish i would recommend are:
neon tetras - best in small shoals of 6 or more
black widow tetras - again around 6 is a good number
mollys/guppys - i would introduce both males and females and your fish count will increase naturally quite quickly i would add around 10 to 12 of these to start there are some beautifully coloured fish available
plectomus / cat fish / loach - i would add a minmum of one of these if not two as they live off the algae and help to keep tank clean
snails and frogs - these also help to keep tank nice and clean
ok so thats the fish taken care of and settled now lets look at the type of food you should feed them and how much of it and how often
the tetra's guppy's and molly's will be quite happy with flake i personally prefer aquarian it offers good value for money and nutrititon for the fish its around 拢4 or 5 for a big tub
the catfish and loaches will be happy with algae wafers again around 拢 3 or 4 pound a tub mark
the frogs and snails will live off the algae wafers too
i would feed only 2 or 3 algae wafers and as regards flake you dont want to feed a lot just a couple of small pinches will be enough try to leave the flakes as big as you can it makes the food easier to find for the fish i only feed every other day its best to keep them on the hungry side keeps them more active and healthy overfeeding can cause toxins in the water as food not eaten will begin to rot which in turn can kill the fish
hope this helps you get started as for books there are loads in any good pet shops im sure you will find one that is most suitable for you good luck
How do you keep painted tetra fish alive and healthy?
I just found out, after buying the painted tetra fish, that the colors aren't natural and are injected. I also found out to paint them like that they get rid of the fishes' most defensive body layer, so they are more prone to dying and disease. I put in some cure stuff that is supposed to make fish who are already sick heal, even though the tetra aren't sick. I took out my filter and it was really dirty, so now I don't know how much more dangerous it is in there for those already really weak fish. Um, two dannio-type things-fish are acting really weird and wouldn't eat, and the two tetra (who are actually perch) didn't go to the food I put into the aquarium either. Any help on the tetra or the weird-acting small-black striped fish would be nice, thanks alot.
Answers:
You are correct about the injections. 80% of dyed fish die during the procedure. The other 20% make it to the fish stores for sale. Dyes that are injected are done with a needle and will eventually fade. The other form of dye, that you're talking about, is the dipping. In this case, the slime coating is stripped away, then the fish is dipped, then an enzyme is coated on the fish to help it build back its slime layer.
Without fail, either of these methods will cause your fish to have weaker immune systems. However, if you put medications into your tank WITHOUT have a sick fish to treat, you may be doing more harm than good.
The filter media has the good bacteria (nitrate) living in there as well as on any surfaces in the tank. When you run the medication through, it kills off this bacteria and you have an uncycled tank again. Ammonia levels will spike, stressing the fish, causing illness, etc...exactly what you're trying to prevent! If the danios aren't eating...test the water. Don't use medication for the fish unless they're sick. Most dechlorinators have stress-zyme in them to help with slime coating when you do your water changes.
i would take them back to pet store who sold them, then tell them why your returning them. some store owners dont know what it takes to "paint" a fish, and unknowinly sell them. the fish will lose their color , and revert back to a sickly glass fish from the toxic dyes used to paint them. i would also get a test kit , i am willing to bet the nitrates are high, and you need to do 10% water changes for the next few days to bring that down, and to keep good water conditions. try not to over feed them, even skip a day fo feeding to see if they are indeed eating, when your not looking . i personally found a local pet store that was selling painted fish , after i told him aboiut them , he stopped selling them ,and even kept the ones that he didnt sell for his own fish, and is taking care of them..
If your fish made it this far after being injected, they already have their slime coat back intact. I would simply provide them with clean water and watch them for disease like you would any other new fish. A good water change and replacing the filter pads would be a good idea, just to be sure the water stays nice and clean. Once the dye fades and your fish recover their health you will find them to be very pretty and interesting fish. Why people would dye them is beyond me.
MM
I would not buy dyed or genetically colored fish. The processes weakens the fish's defense systems .If they are thriving,just be extra scrupulous about keeping the water quality high,feed carefully,and maintain the filters. Do not overcrowd. In a few weeks the dyes will fade and the genetically altered will look similar to the original type,if they even live long enough.These fish are colored before they are exported because there are so many of them and are so cheap,that the wholesalers need to make "diverse" fish for marketing schemes.
Answers:
You are correct about the injections. 80% of dyed fish die during the procedure. The other 20% make it to the fish stores for sale. Dyes that are injected are done with a needle and will eventually fade. The other form of dye, that you're talking about, is the dipping. In this case, the slime coating is stripped away, then the fish is dipped, then an enzyme is coated on the fish to help it build back its slime layer.
Without fail, either of these methods will cause your fish to have weaker immune systems. However, if you put medications into your tank WITHOUT have a sick fish to treat, you may be doing more harm than good.
The filter media has the good bacteria (nitrate) living in there as well as on any surfaces in the tank. When you run the medication through, it kills off this bacteria and you have an uncycled tank again. Ammonia levels will spike, stressing the fish, causing illness, etc...exactly what you're trying to prevent! If the danios aren't eating...test the water. Don't use medication for the fish unless they're sick. Most dechlorinators have stress-zyme in them to help with slime coating when you do your water changes.
i would take them back to pet store who sold them, then tell them why your returning them. some store owners dont know what it takes to "paint" a fish, and unknowinly sell them. the fish will lose their color , and revert back to a sickly glass fish from the toxic dyes used to paint them. i would also get a test kit , i am willing to bet the nitrates are high, and you need to do 10% water changes for the next few days to bring that down, and to keep good water conditions. try not to over feed them, even skip a day fo feeding to see if they are indeed eating, when your not looking . i personally found a local pet store that was selling painted fish , after i told him aboiut them , he stopped selling them ,and even kept the ones that he didnt sell for his own fish, and is taking care of them..
If your fish made it this far after being injected, they already have their slime coat back intact. I would simply provide them with clean water and watch them for disease like you would any other new fish. A good water change and replacing the filter pads would be a good idea, just to be sure the water stays nice and clean. Once the dye fades and your fish recover their health you will find them to be very pretty and interesting fish. Why people would dye them is beyond me.
MM
I would not buy dyed or genetically colored fish. The processes weakens the fish's defense systems .If they are thriving,just be extra scrupulous about keeping the water quality high,feed carefully,and maintain the filters. Do not overcrowd. In a few weeks the dyes will fade and the genetically altered will look similar to the original type,if they even live long enough.These fish are colored before they are exported because there are so many of them and are so cheap,that the wholesalers need to make "diverse" fish for marketing schemes.
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